Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: coat fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads, sleeve heads, 4 buttons, 1 inner button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for coat bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical parts).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PARTS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
ATTENTION: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve bottom. Fuse the pocket opening.
- Stitch the back darts, press the seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances open.
- Attach the pocket bags to the center front part and side front part, press the seam allowances towards the pocket bag. Stitch the front princess seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Press the seam allowances open, clipping the corner on the side front part. Press the pocket bags towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the coat.
- Attach the undercollar to the neckline. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Attach the upper collar to the neckline. Press the seam allowances open. Place the front facings and neckline facing right sides together with the front, and stitch the front edge, collar edge, and bottom corner. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams, press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
- Make buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left. On the left front, make buttonholes, sew a hidden button on the wrong side of the right front.
