Fitted Bodice Dress With Cuffed Sleeves

Name: Fitted Bodice Dress With Cuffed Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2178
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2178

A women's dress with a fitted crossover bodice and wide lapels formed by the front facing, a skirt gathered at the waist seam, and puffed sleeves gathered at the cap and into narrow cuffs. Concealed zipper at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Bodice Dress With Cuffed Sleeves

When To Wear

For daytime events, dinners and family celebrations.
For the office in spring and autumn, with low-heeled shoes.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a seam at the waist and a full, gathered skirt.

Length: Below the knee.

Collar: Wide lapels cut in one with the upper fronts, faced with interfaced front facings stitched from the shoulder to the waist.

Front: Two upper fronts with bust darts, the right lapped over the left and secured into the waist seam; the lower front is cut in one piece on the fold and gathered.

Sleeves: Set-in, just below the elbow, gathered at the cap and at the hem into a folded, interfaced cuff.

Back: Upper back in two pieces with waist darts, lower back in two gathered pieces; centre back seam with a concealed zipper. Back neckline finished with a facing.

Finishing: Hem turned up and topstitched, 2 cm hem allowance.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Faced lapels on a crossover bodice, gathers at the waist, sleeve cap and sleeve hem, and a concealed zipper.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facings, cuffs)
1 concealed zipper

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Back Neckline Facings, Center Front Facings and Cuffs.
Stitch the waist darts on the Upper Back pieces and press the dart intakes towards the center. Sew a line of long gathering stitches along the upper edge of the Lower Back pieces and gather. Stitch the Upper Back and Lower Back together, press the seam allowances upwards and overlock.
Overlock the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem and press the seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
Stitch the bust darts on the Upper Front pieces and press the dart intakes upwards.
Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the Center Front Facing on the Upper Front, right sides together, and stitch the lapel and front edge from the shoulder seam down to the lower edge. Clip the seam allowances at the shoulder seam, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten and press.
Lap the right Upper Front over the left, matching the center front lines, and baste them together along the lower edge and the front edge. Sew a line of long gathering stitches along the upper edge of the Lower Front and gather. Stitch the Upper Front and Lower Front together, press the seam allowances downwards and overlock.
Overlock the outer edge of the Back Neckline Facings. Place the facings on the back, right sides together, and stitch the neckline edge exactly up to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the seam allowances, turn the facings to the wrong side and press. Secure the facings to the zipper tape.
Stitch the shoulder seams, placing the front between the back and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press the seam allowances and overlock. Sew a line of long gathering stitches along the sleeve cap and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the seam allowances and overlock.
Stitch the Cuff into a ring and press the seam allowances open. Press the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Sew a line of long gathering stitches along the lower edge of the Sleeve and gather. Stitch the outer half of the Cuff to the Sleeve, turn under the allowance of the inner half and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
Overlock the hem allowance, press it to the wrong side and topstitch.