Tailored Double-Breasted Coat
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a classically tailored coat, featuring a double-breasted closure and a graceful a-line silhouette, shaped with elegant seam lines.
When To Wear
This coat is a versatile and stylish choice, perfect for:
- Professional & Business Settings: Its sophisticated design makes it ideal for office wear or client meetings.
- Elegant Everyday Wear: Elevate your daily outfits with this refined and comfortable outer garment.
- Formal Occasions: Pair it over dresses or tailored ensembles for a polished look at events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored a-line silhouette, fitted through the torso with shaping seams that gently flare to the hem.
Neckline & Collar: Features a wide, notched lapel collar that frames the face elegantly.
Closure: Double-breasted front closure secured with two visible buttons.
Sleeves: Long, set-in two-piece sleeves, expertly shaped for a comfortable fit and ending in a clean cuff.
Back: Designed with vertical princess seams and a center back seam for a flattering, contoured fit.
Length: An above-the-knee length offers both warmth and style, suitable for various occasions.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills including multi-panel construction, precise collar and lapel application, two-piece sleeve setting, and lining integration.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium to heavy-weight coat fabrics that hold structure well:
- Coat fabric made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Two large buttons
- One hidden button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the coat bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve insert – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper front facing – 1 piece
- Lower front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: center front, back neckline facing, upper and lower front facings.
Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- On the back, stitch the darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press the allowances open.
- On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the coat. Clip the allowance at the corner near the shoulder seam. Stitch the collar seam. Press the allowance open. Stitch the shoulder seams, simultaneously setting the collar into the neckline.
- Attach the sleeve insert to the upper sleeve. Press the allowance upwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing, clipping the allowances at the corners. Set the collar into the neckline. Press the allowances open. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
- Stitch the upper and lower front facings. Press the allowances open. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and bottom. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collars together. Close the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Buttonhole on the right front piece. Sew buttons to the left front piece. Buttonhole the inner loop. Sew on the inner button.
