Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: coat fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; two large buttons; one hidden button; shoulder pads, sleeve heads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the coat bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve insert – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper front facing – 1 piece
  • Lower front facing – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: center front part, back neckline facing, upper and lower front facings.

ATTENTION: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. On the back, stitch the darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press the allowances open.
3. On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances towards the center.
4. Stitch and press open the side seams of the coat. Clip the allowance at the corner near the shoulder seam. Stitch the collar seam. Press the allowance open. Stitch the shoulder seams, simultaneously setting the collar into the neckline.
5. Attach the sleeve insert to the upper sleeve part. Press the allowance upwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
6. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing, clipping the allowances at the corners. Set the collar into the neckline. Press the allowances open. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
7. Stitch the upper and lower front facings. Press the allowances open. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and bottom. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collars together. Close the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
8. Buttonhole on the right front piece. Sew buttons to the left front piece. Buttonhole the inner loop. Sew on the inner button.