Dress with Yoke and Separating Zipper
Introducing a sophisticated longline knit jacket pattern, featuring a flattering, subtly fitted silhouette, distinctive front and back yokes, and a chic draped stand collar, all secured with a central separating zipper.
When To Wear
This versatile knit jacket is an excellent choice for a variety of occasions, offering both style and comfort:
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Elevated Casual Wear: Perfect for adding a polished touch to everyday outfits, such as over slim trousers or leggings.
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Transitional Layering: An ideal outer layer for cooler seasons or temperate climates, providing warmth without bulk.
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Comfortable Travel Attire: Its relaxed yet refined style makes it suitable for stylish and comfortable travel.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a longline cut with a relaxed, subtly fitted shape that skims the body, tapering gently to a unique high-low hem.
Neckline / Collar: a generously sized stand collar designed to drape softly when open, or stand upright for warmth, offering a modern aesthetic.
Closure: a full-length separating zipper elegantly runs down the center front, providing easy wear and a clean, contemporary finish.
Sleeves: Long, straight set-in sleeves offer comfortable coverage and a clean arm line.
Yokes: Distinctive horizontal yokes across both the front and back shoulders provide structural interest and a tailored feel.
Hem: a modern high-low hemline, gracefully curved and extending longer at the back, adds a contemporary and dynamic touch.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires familiarity with knit fabric construction, precise installation of a separating zipper, and accurate alignment of yoke seams.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose stable knit fabrics with a low degree of stretch to ensure the jacket maintains its intended shape and drape:
- Dense knit fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Knit fusible interfacing
- Separating zipper
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the front, if provided by the size, press the depth upwards.
- Stitch the center seam of the back yoke, press allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the center seam of the front yoke, press allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the center front seam, inserting the right side of the separating zipper between the pieces, press allowances to the right side, serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Topstitch the left side of the separating zipper to the front.
- Attach the sleeves to the back, press allowances towards the sleeve and serge. Attach the sleeves to the front, press allowances towards the sleeve and serge.
- Attach the yoke all around to the main garment, press allowances towards the yoke and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Stitch the side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam, press allowances and serge.
- Stitch the center and shoulder seams of the facings, press allowances open. Serge the bottom edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure the facing to the allowances of the center and shoulder seams.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
