Fitted Knit Jacket with Yokes and Separating Zipper

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dense knit fabric with low stretch from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: knit fusible interfacing; separating zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the front, if provided by the size, press the depth upwards.
3. Stitch the center seam of the back yoke, press allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the center seam of the front yoke, press allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
4. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the center front seam, inserting the right side of the separating zipper between the pieces, press allowances to the right side, serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Topstitch the left side of the separating zipper to the front.
5. Attach the sleeves to the back, press allowances towards the sleeve and serge. Attach the sleeves to the front, press allowances towards the sleeve and serge.
6. Attach the yoke all around to the main garment, press allowances towards the yoke and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
7. Stitch the side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam, press allowances and serge.
8. Stitch the center and shoulder seams of the facings, press allowances open. Serge the bottom edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure the facing to the allowances of the center and shoulder seams.
9. Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.