Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Fleece, soft thick knit fabric (French terry). YOU WILL ALSO NEED: Rib knit or highly stretchy knit fabric; knit fusible interfacing; drawstring for the hood; separating zipper; cord ends. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Facing bottom edge allowance – 0 cm; Hood outer edge allowance 2 cm. Pocket opening allowance – 2 cm. All other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Patch pocket – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric1:
- Bottom facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. Hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse interfacing to the areas for buttonholes on the hood and the diagonal edge of the pocket.
- Stitch darts on the front, if provided by the size.
- Serge the pocket opening. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Serge and fold the top, bottom, and side allowances of the pockets to the wrong side and press. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch the pocket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the hoodie. Press seams towards the back and serge.
- Set the sleeve into the open armhole. Serge the seam. Stitch the side seam and sleeve seam. Serge the seam and press towards the back.
- Fold the bottom facing in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Attach the facing to the bottom of the garment, slightly stretching the facing. Press and serge the allowances.
- Stitch the hood seam. Serge the allowance and press to the left side. Serge buttonholes. Serge the outer edge of the hood, fold to the wrong side and topstitch, forming a casing. Attach the hood to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facing and back neckline facing. Press allowances open. Serge the outer and bottom edges of the front facing and back neckline facing. Place the front facing onto the front, aligning edges, insert the separating zipper and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Turn the front facing to the wrong side and secure at the shoulder seam. Secure the bottom edge of the front facing to the seam attaching the bottom band. Topstitch along the zipper.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, slightly stretching. Press and serge the allowances.
- Insert the drawstring into the casing, secure the cord ends.
