Fitted Bodice Dress With Cuffed Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 1 invisible zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch waist darts on the upper back pieces, press dart allowances towards the center. Along the upper edge of the lower back piece, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
3. Overcast the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper.
4. Stitch bust darts on the front pieces, press dart allowances upwards.
5. Overcast the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing onto the upper front piece and stitch the lapel and front edge from the shoulder seam to the bottom. Clip seam allowances at the shoulder seam, turn the front facing to the wrong side, smooth out, and press.
6. Place the right front piece over the left, aligning the centers of the pieces, secure along the bottom edge and along the front edge. Along the upper edge of the lower front piece, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together, press seam allowances downwards and overcast.
7. Overcast the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing onto the back and stitch the neckline edge precisely to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
8. Stitch shoulder seams, inserting the front piece between the back and the back neckline facing. Press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and overcast. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
11. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer side attachment.
12. Overcast the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch.