Tailored Contrast Lapel Dress
A women's fitted sheath dress with an overlapping upper front, notched lapels and collar in contrast fabric, a horizontal front waistband and elbow-length sleeves with contrast turn-up cuffs. Concealed zipper and vent at the centre back.
When To Wear
- At the office and at business meetings, on its own or under a coat.
- For daytime events and dinners in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, close to the body through the hips, shaped with waist darts on the back and front and bust darts.
Length: Around the knee.
Collar: Notched lapels and a collar, each cut double from contrast fabric and interfaced; the collar comes in two halves that meet at the centre back above the zipper.
Front: Two upper front pieces, the right lapped over the left and held with one button; the overlap is secured into the waistband seam. Front facings and back neck facings finish the neckline.
Waist: A separate front waistband between the upper front and the lower front, which is cut in one piece on the fold.
Sleeves: Set-in, elbow length, with small pleats at the sleeve cap directed towards its centre. Double contrast cuffs turned up to the right side, each with a button.
Back: Centre back seam with a concealed zipper and an interfaced vent at the hem (6 cm vent allowance).
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar and lapels set between the dress and the facing, a lapped back vent, a concealed zipper and turn-up cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres. A contrast fabric for the lapels, collar and cuffs.
Additional Supplies
- Contrast fabric
- Concealed zipper
- Fusible interfacing (facings, back neck facings, lapels, collar, cuffs, vent)
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece on fold
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- Upper front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- From contrasting fabric:
- Lapel - 4 pieces
- Collar - 4 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Lapel - 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on back and front pieces, press waist dart depths towards the center of the pieces, and bust darts upwards.
- On the left back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the slit. On both back pieces, fuse interfacing to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left along the slit fold line, and on the right, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overlock the center back seam separately on each piece. Overlock the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right piece. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Fold lapel pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the piece right side out and press.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends, outer edge, and center back seam. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the piece right side out and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch collars and lapels into the neckline edge, press allowances.
- Stitch shoulder seams of facings and back neckline facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Fold the facing with the front piece right sides together (collars and lapels are positioned between them) and stitch the neckline edge and center front edge. Turn the facing with the neckline facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure to shoulder seams and zipper tape. Overlap the right front piece over the left and secure the pieces at the lower edge.
- Stitch the front waistband to the upper front, press allowances towards the waistband and overlock. Stitch the lower front to the front waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch sleeve seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Fold and secure pleats at the sleeve cap (depths directed towards the center of the cap). Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends from the fold to the mark. Trim allowances at the corner, clip at the mark. Form the cuff into a loop and stitch the sections from the mark to the lower edge. Turn the cuff right side out, straighten, press. Align the cuff with the wrong side of the sleeve, matching the seam on the cuff with the mark on the sleeve, and stitch. Press allowances and overlock. Turn the cuff to the right side.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew a button on the front, securing the right. Sew buttons to the cuffs, matching marks.
