Zippered Dress with Collar and Drawstring
A women's long flared dress with a stand collar and a separating zip down the whole centre front. Sleeves are cut in front and back halves with a seam along the arm. A second fabric forms a band across the upper chest, back and sleeves, and a cord runs through a casing at the waist.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring with boots or flat shoes.
- For everyday city wear, with a coat over it in cold weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Bodice with sleeves joined below the shoulder point, a waist seam and a wide flared skirt.
Length: Mid-calf.
Collar: Interfaced stand, with outer and inner stand set into the neckline.
Sleeves: Front and back sleeve halves, each in two parts, joined to the bodice and topstitched 0.5 cm; the shoulder seam continues along the sleeve. Folded, interfaced cuffs.
Closure: Separating zip from the collar to the hem, stitched between the front and the facing.
Pockets: Hip pockets in the lower front, with a pocket side piece, secured at the side and waist seams.
Back: Centre back seam through bodice and skirt.
Waist: Separate casing topstitched over the waist seam with two rows from the right side; decorative cord threaded through.
Finishing: Upper front, upper back and upper sleeve parts cut from a second fabric (main fabric 1).
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A full-length separating zip with facings and a stand collar, multi-part sleeves, hip pockets and an applied casing.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm dress fabrics, in two colours or textures for the main and upper parts.
Additional Supplies
- Second dress fabric for the upper parts
- Separating zip (full length)
- Fusible interfacing (collar stands, cuffs, front facings)
- Decorative cord
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance - 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Lower back sleeve - 2 pieces
- Central back - 2 pieces
- Lower back — 2 pieces
- Central front - 2 pieces
- Lower front — 2 pieces
- Lower front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Casing – 1 piece
- Pocket side – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Upper back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Upper front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper front - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the central and upper back parts. Overlock the seam allowance and press it upwards. Stitch the back sleeve parts. Overlock the seam allowances and press them upwards. Attach the sleeve to the back. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the sleeve. Topstitch along the sleeve 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the lower back to the back. Overlock the seam allowance and press it upwards. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam allowance and press it to the left side.
- Stitch the central and upper front parts. Overlock the seam allowance and press it upwards. Stitch the front sleeve parts. Overlock the seam allowances and press them upwards. Attach the sleeve to the front. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the sleeve. Topstitch along the sleeve 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the pocket piece onto the lower front, right sides together, and stitch the pocket opening. Clip the seam allowances, turn the pocket to the wrong side and press. Place the lower front onto the pocket side and stitch the pocket bag seams. Overlock the seam allowance and press. Secure the pocket at the side and upper edges.
- Attach the lower front to the front. Overlock the seam allowance and press it upwards.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seam. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the back.
- Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facing and the back neckline facing. Press the seam allowances open. Overlock the outer edges of the front facing and facing. Attach the inner collar stand to the neckline. Press the seam allowances open. Place the front facing onto the front, aligning the edges, insert the separating zipper and stitch along the front edge and collar stand. Turn the front facing to the wrong side and secure it at the neckline edge and shoulder seam.
- Turn under the short seam allowances of the casing to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the long seam allowances of the casing to the wrong side. Place the casing onto the waist seam and topstitch from the right side with two parallel rows of stitching.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop. Press the seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer side attachment.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the dress, press it to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Secure the front facing to the waist seam with hand stitches. Thread the cord through the casing.
