Fit & Flare Double-Breasted Dress with Lapels

Name: Fit & Flare Double-Breasted Dress with Lapels
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2144
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2144

A women's mid-calf dress with a fitted bodice and a flared skirt joined at the waist seam. The double-breasted bodice front has wide lapels cut in one with the upper front and four buttons; the dress closes with an invisible zipper at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fit & Flare Double-Breasted Dress with Lapels

When To Wear

For the office and daytime events in spring and summer.
For garden parties and family celebrations, with low heels.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped with bust darts at the front and waist darts at the back; flared skirt.

Length: Mid-calf.

Collar: V-neckline with wide pointed lapels cut in one with the upper fronts and faced with interfaced front facings, stitched from the shoulder down to the waist. There is no separate collar; the back neckline has an interfaced facing attached to the zipper tape.

Front: Double-breasted overlap, the right front over the left, basted together at the waist seam, so the four buttons in two pairs are decorative.

Closure: Invisible zipper in the centre back seam.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with the hem turned and topstitched.

Back: Centre back seam running the full length; waist darts in the upper and lower back.

Skirt: Front skirt in one piece cut on the fold; back skirt in two pieces.

Finishing: Hems overlocked, turned and topstitched; seams overlocked.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Faced lapels clipped at the shoulder, a back facing set into the shoulder seams, an invisible zipper, set-in sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facings)
1 invisible zipper
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm; hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the respective pieces.
Stitch the waist darts on the Upper Back and Lower Back, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the Upper Back to the Lower Back, press the seam allowances upwards and serge.
Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press the seam allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper.
Stitch the bust darts on the Upper Front pieces, press the dart allowances upwards.
Serge the outer edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the Center Front Facing on the Upper Front, right sides together, and stitch the lapel and front edge from the shoulder seam to the bottom. Clip the seam allowances at the shoulder seam, turn the Center Front Facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
Place the right Upper Front over the left, aligning the center front lines, and baste them together along the lower edge. Stitch the Upper Front to the Lower Front, press the seam allowances downwards and serge.
Serge the outer edge of the Back Neckline Facing. Place the Back Neckline Facing on the back, right sides together, and stitch the neckline edge exactly up to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
Stitch the shoulder seams, sandwiching the Upper Front between the back and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Serge the hem allowance of the Sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the sleeve seam, press and serge the seam allowances. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press and serge the seam allowances.
Serge the hem allowance of the garment bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
Sew the buttons onto the front.