Yoked Collared Button-Front Blouse
A sleeveless women's blouse with front and back yokes that form the shoulder, a V-neck with a small collar joined to the button plackets, and side slits. Five buttons.
When To Wear
- In summer with skirts and trousers.
- Under a jacket or cardigan for the office.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by front darts.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Two-layer interfaced collar stitched to the plackets along the break line, so placket and collar run as one line around the V-neck.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; the yokes extend over the shoulder, armholes finished with folded bias binding.
Front: Front yokes cut on an angle from the neckline to the armhole, front darts below, interfaced plackets sewn on as separate double pieces.
Closure: Five buttons and buttonholes on the plackets.
Back: Back yokes and a centre back seam.
Finishing: Side seams open into slits at the hem, reinforced with a line of stitching 0.5 cm from the edge; hem turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar and placket joined at the break line and set in one pass, yoke seams, bias-bound armholes and buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, collar)
- 5 buttons
- Bias binding, 4 cm wide, for the armholes (cut from self-fabric)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Back Yoke - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Front Yoke - 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the plackets and collar.
- Stitch the center back seam. Finish the allowance and press to the left side. Attach the back yokes to the back. Finish the allowances and press towards the yokes.
- Stitch the darts on the front. Press the dart folds upwards. Attach the front yokes to the front. Finish the allowances and press towards the yokes.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Finish the allowances and press towards the back.
- Place the collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and corner. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line.
- Place the plackets right sides together and stitch the edges and upper corners. Clip the allowances, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the collar and placket along the lapel line. Press allowances open.
- Attach the outer plackets and collar to the front and back. Fold the allowances of the inner pieces inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam. Press the plackets and collar.
- Finish the side seams separately. Stitch the side seams from the armhole to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge on the right side, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Finish the bottom edge of the garment, fold inwards, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes and sew buttons onto the plackets.
