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#2118
#2120

Wide Neck Draped Crossover Blouse

Pattern #2119

A fitted women's blouse with a wide neckline framed by a deep turned-down collar and a crossover front. The right front laps over the left in a curve and is gathered into pleats that run into a vertical seam on one side. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres with added elastane.

Tech. Description

Draped Wide Neck Crossover Blouse

A fitted women's blouse with a wide neckline framed by a deep turned-down collar and a crossover front. The right front laps over the left in a curve and is gathered into pleats that run into a vertical seam on one side.

When To Wear

  • With a pencil skirt or tailored trousers for the office or a dinner.
  • Spring, summer and early autumn: the sleeves end above the elbow.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, hip length.

Collar: Wide interfaced collar in three parts (back, right and left) with shoulder seams, lying over the shoulders around the open neckline. The right collar part is folded in half and stitched along the front seam line, following the crossover.

Sleeves: Set-in short sleeves above the elbow, eased into the armhole, hemmed by hand.

Front: Asymmetric front of a right front, a left front and a side front. Pleats on the right front are turned downwards; the right front is laid over the left and stitched into the collar seam, then joined to the side front.

Back: Two back pieces with darts and a centre back seam; a concealed zipper is set between two marks, below the collar.

Finishing: Hems of the blouse and sleeves turned up 2 cm and sewn with blind stitches.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A three-part collar set into a wide neckline, an asymmetric crossover front with pleats sewn into a shaped seam, a concealed zipper inserted between marks and hand-finished hems.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres with added elastane.

Additional Supplies

  • Concealed zipper
  • Fusible interfacing (collar pieces)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the blouse bottom and sleeve – 2.0 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.

  • From main fabric:
    • Back - 2 pieces
    • Right front – 1 piece
    • Left front – 1 piece
    • Side front – 1 piece
    • Back collar – 2 pieces
    • Right collar – 2 pieces
    • Left collar – 2 pieces
    • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing:
    • Back collar – 1 piece
    • Right collar – 1 piece
    • Left collar – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

  1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
  2. Stitch the darts on the back pieces. Press the darts towards the center seam.
  3. Serge the center edges of the back separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom. Press the center seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
  4. Stitch the shoulder seams of the collar pieces, press the allowances open. Place the upper and lower collar right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip the allowances, turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press.
  5. Form and secure the pleats on the right front (pleat depths facing downwards). Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
  6. Stitch the lower collar to the neckline, press the allowances towards the collar. Turn the lower edge of the upper collar inwards and topstitch into the seam of the lower collar attachment. Fold the left collar onto the front, serge the lower edge of the left front together with the collar. Overlap the right front onto the left and topstitch into the collar attachment seam.
  7. Fold the right collar in half, align the fold with the mark, and secure the collar along the relief with the front. Stitch the side front to the right front, press the allowances towards the side and serge.
  8. Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
  9. Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back of the sleeve and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the cap. Press and serge the allowances.
  10. Serge the hem allowance of the blouse bottom and sleeve, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.

Features

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Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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