Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with added elastane. You will also need: a concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2.0 cm, all other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece
- Yoke_1 – 1 piece
- Yoke_2 – 1 piece
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Yoke_1 facing – 1 piece
- Yoke_2 facing – 1 piece
- Bridge – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Note: Markings on patterns are on the right side.
- Stitch darts on the back. Press darts towards the center seam.
- On the lower back part, lay and secure pleats. Depths are directed towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Overlock allowances and press upwards. Overlock center edges separately. Stitch the center seam from the zipper mark downwards. Press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch bust and waist darts on the front. Press bust dart depths upwards, waist darts towards the center.
- Overlock vertical edges of yoke_1 facing. Fold facing with yoke_1 wrong sides together and stitch upper and lower edges. Clip allowances at the mark, turn facing right side out. Overlock vertical edges of yoke_2 facing. Fold facing with yoke_2 wrong sides together and stitch upper and lower edges. Clip allowances at the mark, turn facing right side out.
- Place yoke_1 on the front right side to right side (yoke shoulder edge facing down) and topstitch along the marked line. Fold yoke upwards, secure to the front along open edges. Then treat as one piece. Place yoke_2 on the front right side to right side (yoke shoulder edge facing down) and topstitch along the marked line. Fold yoke upwards, secure to the front along open edges. Then treat as one piece. Stitch the ends of the yokes together, press allowances open and overlock.
- Fold the bridge piece in half lengthwise right side in and stitch. Turn the piece right side out, press, positioning the seam in the middle of the piece. Place the bridge on the front, attach to the neckline edge (the piece is located under the yoke pieces).
- Stitch the right shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide for finishing the neckline. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge right side up and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Stitch the left shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the bridge upwards, adjust the width by creating pleats on the yokes, and sew to the neckline from the wrong side.
- On the lower front part, lay and secure pleats. Depths are directed towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Overlock allowances and press upwards.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide for finishing the armhole. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right side up and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
