Tailored Wrap Sheath Dress
A women's fitted sheath dress, below knee length, with a wrap upper front finished with faced lapels, a wide belt at the waist buttoned at the back and three-quarter sleeves. Centre back seam with a zipper and a vent.
When To Wear
- At the office and for business meetings in autumn and spring.
- For dinners and daytime events with court shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted sheath, shaped by bust and waist darts on the front and shoulder and waist darts on the back.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Lapels formed by the upper front edges turned with interfaced front facings; the back neckline is finished with an interfaced facing.
Front: Upper front cut in two pieces, right lapped over left and joined to a lower front cut on the fold.
Sleeves: Set-in, three-quarter length, with a topstitched hem.
Back: Upper and lower back joined by a waist seam; centre back seam with a zipper and an interfaced vent at the hem.
Waist: Separate interfaced belt sewn as a tube, with buttonholes and buttons; the drawing shows two buttons at the back.
Finishing: Seam allowances overlocked; hems pressed up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Faced lapels on a wrap front, a centre back vent, zipper insertion and darts on all bodice and skirt pieces.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven dress fabric with body that holds the lapels and the sheath shape, such as wool crepe, gabardine or suiting.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, belt, vent)
- Zipper
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece on fold
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch shoulder and waist darts on back pieces, press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- On both back pieces, from the wrong side, fuse interfacing to the vent. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the vent allowances. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left along the vent fold line; on the right, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (1 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Serge the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing onto the upper front and stitch the lapel edge from the shoulder seam to the mark. Clip allowances at the shoulder seam and mark, turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
- Trim the waist dart allowances of the upper front to 1 cm. Place the right front over the left, secure at the lower edge. Stitch bust darts, press allowances and serge.
- Stitch waist darts on the lower front, press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch upper and lower front parts, press allowances downwards and serge.
- Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing onto the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
- Stitch shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the back neckline facing. Press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch sleeve edges, press allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the hem allowances of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out, straighten, and press. Close the opening. Serge buttonholes, sew on buttons.
