Fitted Notched Lapel Blazer with Decorative Welts

Name: Fitted Notched Lapel Blazer with Decorative Welts
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2070
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2070

A fitted, fully lined women's jacket with a notched collar, a single-breasted four-button front, bust darts on the fronts and waist darts with a centre back seam at the back. Two welts sit low on the fronts. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: medium-weight woven jacket fabrics: wool suiting, wool blends, tweed, gabardine.

Tech. Description

The Classic Tailored Blazer

When To Wear

For the office with trousers, a straight skirt or a dress.
In spring and autumn over shirts, blouses and fine knitwear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by bust darts on the fronts and waist darts on the back.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the under collar is set into the jacket neckline, the upper collar into the facings and back neck facing. Stay tape along the lapel roll line.

Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons, buttonholes on the right front.

Pockets: Interfaced welts, folded lengthwise, sewn to the front along the lower marking line, turned up and topstitched at the sides.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves with an underarm seam.

Back: Centre back seam and waist darts.

Finishing: Front edge seam allowance understitched 0.2 cm from the seam, onto the facing along the closure and onto the front along the lapels.

Lining: Full lining, cut from the main pieces minus the facings, joined at the hem and turned through an opening in the sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A notched collar with stay-taped lapels, front edges understitched in two directions, welts, a full lining and buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight woven jacket fabrics: wool suiting, wool blends, tweed, gabardine.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, welts)
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Under collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention! Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
From fusible interfacing:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar - 1 piece
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front piece, along the lapel roll line, apply a grainline stay tape 1 cm wide (from fusible interfacing).
Stitch the waist darts on the back pieces, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the bust darts on the front pieces, trim the allowances to 1 cm, press towards the center.
Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open.
Fold the welt pocket flap piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along one short side. Trim the allowances at the corner, turn the piece right side out, and press. Place the welt pocket flap on the front piece along the lower marking line (fold facing down) and stitch. Fold the welt pocket flap upwards, press, and topstitch the side onto the front piece.
Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim the seams at the corners, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams at the corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
Stitch the under collar into the jacket neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
Stitch the underarm seam of the sleeve, press the allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the underarm seam of the right sleeve.
Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
On the right front piece, make buttonholes; on the left front piece, sew on buttons.