Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Thin, well-draping dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers, for example, crepe-chiffon. Also needed: lining fabric; concealed zipper; fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm, hem allowance for the skirt bottom – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back piece - 2 pieces
- Side back piece - 2 pieces
- Side front piece - 2 pieces
- Center front piece – 1 piece
- Back waistband - 2 pieces
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- Upper skirt - 1 piece
- Lower skirt - 1 piece
- Facing - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back piece - 2 pieces
- Side back piece - 2 pieces
- Side front piece - 2 pieces
- Center front piece – 1 piece
- Back waistband - 2 pieces
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back waistband - 2 pieces
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the back waistband, front waistband, and facing pieces.
- Place facings right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Press seam allowances, clip curves. Turn facing to the right side, baste, press.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back, press allowances towards the center, serge.
- Attach the back waistband to the upper part, press allowances towards the waistband, serge. Attach the front waistband to the upper part, press allowances towards the waistband, serge.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Process the lining pieces similarly. Place the lining with the main fabric right sides together and stitch the armhole edges, press seam allowances, clip curves. Turn the bodice to the right side and continue to treat as one piece. Serge the center back seam.
- Attach the outer facing to the upper edge of the front, clip seam allowances and press towards the facing. Attach the outer facing to the upper edge of the back, clip seam allowances and press towards the facing. Press the raw edge of the outer facing to the wrong side.
- Serge the center edges of the upper and lower skirts. Place the upper skirt on the lower skirt and secure along the upper and center edges up to the mark. Attach the skirt to the dress, press seam allowances towards the waistband and serge.
- Stitch the center back seam from the mark downwards on each skirt separately. Press the seam open, pressing the allowance for the fastener. Place the zipper under the allowances so that the teeth are not visible and stitch. Press the allowance of the inner facing to the wrong side and topstitch into the facing attachment seam. Turn under the short edges and secure to the zipper tape.
- Press the hem allowance of the upper and lower skirts to the wrong side, fold inwards and topstitch.
