Plus Size Short Collarless Jacket with Shoulder Ruffle Detail

Name: Plus Size Short Collarless Jacket with Shoulder Ruffle Detail
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 905991
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #905991

A women's plus-size short, fully lined jacket with a round collarless neckline, a three-button front and two-piece three-quarter sleeves. A gathered ruffle "bow" in a light contrast fabric is caught into the right front edge at the neck and passed through a bound slit near the shoulder. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres; a light, drapey fabric for the bow.

Tech. Description

Short Collarless Jacket with Shoulder Ruffle Detail

When To Wear

For the office over a dress or with a matching skirt or trousers, in spring and autumn.
Daytime events and receptions, where the bow replaces a brooch or scarf.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts on the fronts and the back.

Length: Short, ending at the high hip.

Neckline: Round and collarless, finished with the front facings and an interfaced back neck facing.

Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the right front; interfaced front facings.

Front: Long darts, cut open and pressed towards the side seams. The bow is one piece of drapey contrast fabric, its two long edges and one short edge finished with a fine rolled hem and the raw edge gathered. It is caught into the right front edge seam, then threaded through a slit on the right front made like a bound buttonhole with two folded, interfaced facings, arranged and fastened to the jacket.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, three-quarter length, eased into the upper cap; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Back: Centre back seam and back darts.

Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the right lining sleeve seam; front and back body lining pieces are cut less the width of the facings.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A bound slit cut through the front, a ruffle set into the faced front edge, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres; a light, drapey fabric for the bow.

Additional Supplies

Light drapey contrast fabric for the bow
Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, slit facings)
Fusible stay tape for the slit area
3 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Front facing – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Facing – 4 pieces

From decorative fabric:

Bow – 1 piece

From lining fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Attention: back and front pieces are cut by subtracting the width of the neckline facing and front facing, respectively.

From fusible interfacing: front facing, facings, back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse the front facing, back neckline facing, and facings with fusible interfacing.
Stitch darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side.
Mark and stitch darts on the front. Clip seam allowances and press towards the side seam.
Mark the slit location on the right front with three lines. Fuse this area with a grain line strip. Fold the facings in half with the wrong side in and press. Mark a guide line on the facing parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Stitch the facings to the front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel lines of the slit marking. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the slit. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the ends. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the ends of the slit from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Press.
Overlock the long edges and one short edge of the bow with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch along the raw edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge and the neckline area of the front, stopping 2-3 cm from the neckline edge, inserting the bow on the right front. Stitching is done from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim seams at corners. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten seams, press.
Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the back and front neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten seams and press.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing them in the upper of the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket and the sleeve. Turn the jacket through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
Pass the bow through the slits, arrange it nicely, and attach it to the jacket.