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#905972
#905975

Plus Size Dress with Pleated Crossover Front

Pattern #905974

A plus-size women's knee-length dress in knit fabric with a crossover upper front: two pleated upper front pieces, the right lapped over the left, form a V-neckline and are joined to the lower front along a curved seam under the bust. Set-in sleeves, centre back seam, no fastenings. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with low to medium stretch made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Plus Size Dress with Pleated Crossover Front

A plus-size women's knee-length dress in knit fabric with a crossover upper front: two pleated upper front pieces, the right lapped over the left, form a V-neckline and are joined to the lower front along a curved seam under the bust. Set-in sleeves, centre back seam, no fastenings.

When To Wear

  • At the office or for daytime events, with tights and court shoes.
  • Autumn and winter, under a jacket or a long cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, close to the body, pulled on over the head.

Length: Knee length.

Neckline: V-neckline formed by the crossed upper fronts; the edges of both front pieces and the back neckline are turned under and topstitched, without facings.

Front: Upper left front with a dart; both upper fronts have pleats folded towards the armholes. The right front is laid over the left, the layers are basted together along the shoulder, armhole, side and lower edges, then joined to the one-piece lower front.

Sleeves: Set-in one-seam sleeves ending above the wrist, hem turned up and topstitched.

Back: Two pieces with a centre back seam.

Finishing: Hems of the dress and sleeves overlocked, turned up and topstitched with a twin needle or coverstitch.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats and a dart on asymmetric front pieces, layering the crossover front accurately and stretch stitching on knit fabric.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with low to medium stretch made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Twin needle (or a coverstitch machine) for the hems

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Upper Right Front – 1 piece
  • Upper Left Front – 1 piece
  • Lower Front – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics should be stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch the pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances to the left side and serge.
  2. Stitch the dart on the Upper Left Front, press the dart depth upwards.
  3. Clip the neckline allowance of the Upper Left Front at the corner, serge the seam allowances, press to the wrong side, and topstitch. Clip the lower edge allowance of the Upper Right Front at the mark, serge the allowance from the armhole to the mark, press to the wrong side, and topstitch. Serge the upper edge of the Upper Right Front, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
  4. Lay and secure the pleats on the Upper Right Front and Upper Left Front (pleat depths towards the armholes). Place the right front over the left, baste them together along the shoulder, armhole, lower and side edges, and treat them as one piece from here on. Stitch the upper front to the Lower Front, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
  5. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front (the back shoulder edges are 1.5 cm longer than the front ones – the allowance for the back neckline hem). Press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch the side seams of the back and front. Press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
  6. Stitch the sleeve seams. Press seam allowances and serge.
  7. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances and serge.
  8. Serge the lower edge of the garment, the lower edge of the sleeve, and the neckline edge of the back. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.

Features

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Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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