Plus Size Cheongsam Style Short Sleeve Sheath Dress

Plus Size Cheongsam Style Short Sleeve Sheath Dress

A plus-size women's cheongsam-style sheath dress above the knee, with a stand collar, short set-in sleeves and side slits. An upper front panel overlaps the front along an asymmetric curved seam trimmed with braid and three soutache loops with buttons; the dress closes with a concealed zip in the left side seam.

When To Wear

• For celebrations, dinners and evening events, including Lunar New Year.
• In spring and summer, with heels or flat shoes.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting sheath with bust and waist darts on the front and princess seams on the back.

Length: Above the knee, hem turned up twice and topstitched, with slits at the lower ends of both side seams.

Collar: Stand collar with rounded ends, the inner stand interfaced and stitched in the ditch; decorative braid along the upper edge.

Front: One front piece with an upper front panel joined along a curved seam running from the neckline to the side seam. Braid is topstitched along the seam, and three soutache loops with buttons sit along it; a hook and eye holds the upper front near the neckline.

Closure: Concealed zip in the left side seam.

Sleeves: Short, set-in, hem turned up twice and trimmed with braid.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Satin fabric, a curved overlapping seam with braid trim, a concealed zip in a side seam combined with a slit, and a stand collar.

Fabric Recommendations

Silk satin fabrics.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (inner stand collar)
• Fusible web tape for the curved seam
• Concealed zip
• Decorative braid
• 3 decorative soutache loops
• 3 buttons
• 1 hook and eye

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Front – 1 piece
4. Upper Front – 1 piece
5. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

Stand Collar (inner layer) – 1 piece

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric, print and lay out the paper patterns according to your fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine required yardage.

Remember to account for paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay close attention to all notches — they must match precisely to ensure correct construction and fit.

Careful pressing and precise seam handling are essential when working with satin fabrics to preserve surface smoothness and prevent marking.

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the inner Stand Collar.

2. Back

Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances toward the left side and overlock.

Stitch the princess seams of the Center Back and Side Back, press the seam allowances toward the center and overlock.

3. Front Darts

Stitch the bust darts on the Front and press downward.

Stitch the waist darts on the Front and press toward the center.

4. Upper Front

Overlock the upper curved edge of the Front and the lower curved edge of the Upper Front.

Tip: to prevent stretching of curved edges, reinforce the stitching lines with fusible web tape.

Place the Front and Upper Front together and stitch the curved seam from the marking to the side edge (the allowance of the lower edge of the Upper Front is wider by 0.5 cm).

Press the seam allowances downward.

Topstitch decorative trim along the curved seam of the Front, turning back the seam allowance of the Upper Front.

5. Shoulder Seams

Stitch the shoulder seams of the dress, press the seam allowances toward the Back and overlock.

6. Side Seams and Zipper

Overlock the seam allowances of the side seams of the Back and Front.

Stitch the left side seam from the top to the zipper marking and from the zipper marking to the slit.

Press the side seam allowances open, press the zipper opening allowances and the lower slit.

Place the concealed zipper under the zipper opening so that the teeth are not visible and stitch in place.

Stitch the right side seam from the top to the notch, press the seam allowances open, pressing the slit edges.

7. Stand Collar

Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge, beginning and ending the stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment line.

Clip seam allowances at the curves, turn the stand collar right side out and press.

Attach the outer stand collar to the neckline, turn under the seam allowance of the inner stand collar and topstitch in the seam of attachment of the outer stand collar.

Topstitch decorative trim onto the stand collar along the upper edge.

8. Sleeves

Stitch the sleeve seams, press the seam allowances and overlock.

Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.

Press the seam allowances and overlock.

Turn the sleeve hem twice to the wrong side and topstitch.

Topstitch decorative trim along the lower edge.

9. Slits and Hem

Topstitch the slit allowances onto the dress.

Turn the hem of the dress twice and topstitch.

10. Closures and Decorative Details

Sew a loop onto the Upper Front between the neckline and the marking, and sew a hook onto the Front.

Sew the decorative soutache loops and buttons onto the Front and Upper Front.