Plus Size Knit Top with Pleated Chiffon Yoke and Voluminous Sleeves

Name: Plus Size Knit Top with Pleated Chiffon Yoke and Voluminous Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 905937
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #905937

A women's plus-size hip-length top combining two fabrics: a straight body in stretch knit and an upper part in crinkle chiffon that forms a pleated yoke and full three-quarter sleeves in one piece. Horizontal pleats are stitched across the yoke; the sleeves are gathered at the hem by elastic in a casing. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with medium to high stretch, in natural or blended fibres, for the body; crinkle chiffon for the yoke and sleeves.

Tech. Description

Plus Size Knit Top with Pleated Chiffon Yoke and Voluminous Sleeves

When To Wear

Spring and summer, with a straight or pencil skirt or slim trousers.
Evenings out and dinners, where the sheer sleeves can be shown.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight body with full sleeves.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Wide boat neck; the 3.5 cm neckline allowance is turned to the wrong side and topstitched along the pleat stitching line.

Front: Chiffon yoke with horizontal pleats folded downwards and stitched only between two marked cross lines, then released into the sleeve. The knit lower front, cut on the fold, is joined to the yoke with the seam pressed up.

Sleeves: Full three-quarter sleeves cut in one with the yoke: four chiffon pieces joined by a seam along the top of the shoulder and arm from the sleeve hem to a circle mark. The underarm seam runs into the side seam. The hem is turned twice by 1 cm into a casing for 0.7 cm elastic.

Back: Same construction as the front: pleated chiffon yoke over a knit lower back cut on the fold.

Finishing: Knit seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker; 1.5 cm hem topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine; seam allowances 1 cm.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Joining slippery chiffon to stretch knit, stitching evenly spaced pleats within marked limits, clipping and turning corners at the armhole and a sleeve casing with elastic.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with medium to high stretch, in natural or blended fibres, for the body; crinkle chiffon for the yoke and sleeves.

Additional Supplies

Elastic, 0.7 cm wide, for the sleeve hems
Twin needle for the hem

Cutter's Must

From knit fabric: Lower Part – 2 pieces (cut on fold)
From chiffon: Upper Part – 4 pieces

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch the pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine. When serging with an overlock, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm.

Sewing Instructions

Mark the pleats on the Upper Part pieces. Fold the pleats along the markings and stitch them, with the pleat folds facing downwards. Stitch the pleats only within the area marked by the 2 cross lines. Press the pleats. Stitch the top edge of the Upper Part pieces from the sleeve hem to the circle mark. Clip the seam allowance at the corner, press the seam and serge. Serge the neckline seam allowance, press it to the wrong side and topstitch along the pleat stitching line.
Clip the seam allowance of the Upper Part at the corner near the armhole. Stitch the Upper Part to the Lower Part. Press the seam upwards. Stitch the lower armhole section of the Lower Part to the matching section of the sleeve. Press the seam towards the sleeve.
Stitch the sleeve seam, simultaneously stitching the side seam. Serge the seams and press them towards the back.
Serge the bottom edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press and topstitch. Press the sleeve hem edge twice by 1 cm and topstitch, leaving an opening for the elastic. Thread the elastic through the casing and secure it.