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#905869
#905903

Plus Size Stand Collar Ruffle Front Blouse

Pattern #905874

A plus-size women's hip-length pullover blouse with a stand collar, a double-layer cascade ruffle (coquille) sewn into the centre front seam and wrapped around the collar, and short self-lined sleeves gathered at the cap and drawn in with elastic thread at the hem. Concealed zip in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: blouse fabric made from natural or blended fibres: silk, viscose, blends.

Tech. Description

Plus Size Stand Collar Ruffle Front Blouse

A plus-size women's hip-length pullover blouse with a stand collar, a double-layer cascade ruffle (coquille) sewn into the centre front seam and wrapped around the collar, and short self-lined sleeves gathered at the cap and drawn in with elastic thread at the hem. Concealed zip in the left side seam.

When To Wear

  • Office wear in spring and summer, with pencil skirts or tailored trousers.
  • Under a jacket for meetings and events.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by bust and waist darts at the front and darts at the back.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Stand collar cut in one piece, folded in half and closed into a ring; the inner edge is stitched in the ditch of the attachment seam.

Front: Two fronts joined by a centre front seam. The coquille ruffle is cut from two layers, stitched together along the outer edge with a 0.7 cm seam and turned, lightly gathered along the inner edge and sewn to the right front from 1.5 cm above the hem; its top corner wraps around the collar and is caught into the collar seam.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves, gathered near the shoulder seam and lined with the main fabric; a row of elastic thread along the lower edge draws the hem in.

Closure: Concealed zip in the left side seam.

Back: Darts and a centre back seam.

Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A two-layer circular ruffle that is turned and set along a seam and around the collar, self-lined sleeves with shirring, and a side zip.

Fabric Recommendations

Blouse fabric made from natural or blended fibres: silk, viscose, blends.

Additional Supplies

  • Concealed zip for the left side seam
  • Elastic thread

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 4 pieces (2 of them are the sleeve lining, cut from the main fabric)
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Coquille – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. Place the two Coquille pieces right sides together and, before cutting them along the inner line, stitch along the outer contour with a 0.7 cm seam. Cut the Coquille along the marked line and clip the seam allowances. Stitch the section from the inner corner of the Coquille to the mark, clip the seam allowance near the mark, turn the Coquille right side out and press. On the right side, run a loose-tension stitch along the inner contour and gather slightly.
  2. Stitch the darts on the front. Press the waist darts towards the center of the front, and the bust darts upwards.
  3. Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam to the left side and serge.
  4. Stitch the Coquille to the center front edge of the right Front as follows: match the marks on the Coquille and the center front edge. Measure 1.5 cm up from the bottom edge of the Front and align the bottom corner of the Coquille with this point. Align the edges and stitch the Coquille in place. Stitch the left and right Fronts together, press the seam towards the left side and serge.
  5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, leaving an opening for the zipper in the left side seam. Press the left seam open, press the remaining seams towards the back and serge. Insert the zipper into the left side seam.
  6. Press the Collar in half lengthwise, then unfold it, fold it into a ring right sides together and stitch the ends. Press and serge the seam. Turn the collar right side out and press. Stitch the outer layer of the collar to the neckline, fold under the inner edge and topstitch it in the ditch of the collar seam. Wrap the Coquille around the collar and stitch its upper corner into the collar seam from the wrong side.
  7. Stitch, press and serge the underarm seams of the sleeves and sleeve linings. Place the sleeve lining inside the sleeve right sides together and stitch the pieces along the bottom edge. Press the seam towards the lining. Along the lining attachment seam between the marks, stitch with elastic thread, placing the elastic on the wrong side. Turn the pieces right side out, align at the cap and secure with a stitch. Then treat the sleeve as a single-layer piece. Between the notches, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather near the shoulder seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press the seam towards the back and front.
  8. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.

Features

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Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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