Plus Size Blouse with Rounded Contrast Neckline, Bow and Pockets
A plus-size women's straight blouse in guipure combined with silk: a rounded silk neckline facing sewn on the outside that looks like a Peter Pan collar, a double bow at the centre front, two silk patch pockets on the chest and short pleated sleeves with silk cuffs. Two-button opening at the back neck.
When To Wear
- Summer, at the office or for daytime events, with a pencil skirt or straight trousers.
- Over a camisole or slip under the guipure.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, loose body.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: No separate collar: wide rounded outer facings in silk are stitched to the right side of the front and back around the neckline, with inner facings on the wrong side, giving the look of a Peter Pan collar.
Front: One piece without darts. A double bow (bigger and smaller bow pieces, interfaced) is slipped through a strap fixed to the front facing at the centre front.
Pockets: Two patch pockets in silk, the upper edge interfaced, turned and topstitched along the fold.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with pleats at the cap, finished with folded silk cuffs joined into a ring.
Back: Centre back seam with an opening at the top, fastened with two buttons through buttonholes in the back facing.
Finishing: Hem turned up twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Handling guipure, outer and inner neckline facings with a faced back opening, pleated sleeve caps, patch pockets with turned corners and a separately made bow.
Fabric Recommendations
Guipure for the body and sleeves; silk fabric for the facings, bow, strap, pockets and cuffs.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (facings, bow pieces, strap, cuffs, upper edge of the pockets)
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From guipure:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From silk fabric:
- Back Facing – 4 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Bigger Bow – 2 pieces
- Smaller Bow – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 1 piece
- Bigger Bow – 2 pieces
- Smaller Bow – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the necessary pieces.
- Place each pair of bow pieces (bigger bow, smaller bow) right sides together and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning in the middle of the top or bottom edge (it will be hidden under the strap). Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the bow right side out, press, and stitch the opening closed.
- Stitch the long edges of the strap, press seam allowances open, centering the seam on the piece. Stitch the upper edge of the strap to the outer front facing, fold the strap down, and attach the lower edge of the strap to the lower edge of the outer front facing.
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the upper seam allowance of the pocket. Serge the side and bottom edges. Press the upper pocket seam allowance to the wrong side by 1 cm, fold it to the right side along the fold line, and stitch the corners. Turn the allowance to the wrong side and press, at the same time pressing under the side and bottom seam allowances. Topstitch along the fold. Topstitch the pockets to the front according to the markings.
- Stitch the outer front facing to the front, catching the strap; clip the seam allowances and press them towards the facing.
- Serge the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam from the mark downwards. Press the seam allowances open, at the same time pressing the opening allowances.
- Stitch the outer back facings to the back, clip the seam allowances and press them towards the facing.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the inner back facings and inner front facing together, press seam allowances open. Place the inner facing and the garment right sides together and stitch along the neckline edge and the opening allowances. Clip the seam allowances on curves, trim at corners, turn the facing out and press. Fold under the lower allowance of the inner facing and topstitch it into the seam attaching the outer facing.
- Form the pleats on the sleeves (inner pleat folds directed away from the center). Stitch the sleeve seams, press and serge. Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Unfold the cuffs and stitch each into a ring. Press seam allowances open. Fold the cuffs along the fold line and stitch the outer side to the lower edge of the sleeve. Press the seam allowance towards the cuff. Fold under the raw edge of the inner cuff and topstitch it into the seam attaching the outer cuff.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press and serge the seam allowances.
- Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the back facing and sew on the buttons. Insert the bows into the strap and secure them with a few stitches.
