Plus Size Puffed Sleeve Wrap Pleated Dress Contrast Hem

Name: Plus Size Puffed Sleeve Wrap Pleated Dress Contrast Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 905805
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #905805

A women's plus-size knit dress of about knee length, with a crossover V-neck bodice, a contrast band under the bust, short puffed sleeves gathered into contrast cuffs and a skirt finished with two hem bands. The bodice fronts and the front skirt are pleated; a concealed zip sits in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with low to medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres, plus a knit in a contrasting colour for the trim strips, insets, cuffs and hem bands.

Tech. Description

Plus Size Puffed Sleeve Wrap Pleated Dress Contrast Hem

When To Wear

Spring and summer daytime events, with sandals or low-heeled shoes.
For the office in the warm months, with a cardigan or a short jacket over it.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Raised waist seam under the bust; the skirt flares gently to the hem.

Length: About knee length.

Neckline: Crossover V-neck, bound with knit tape or bias binding 4 cm wide, folded in half and topstitched along the fold.

Front: Each bodice front is made of a pleated middle front, a diagonal contrast trim strip and a side front. The right front laps over the left; both are held together at the lower edge and stitched into the under-bust band, so the crossover does not open.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves, gathered at the cap and at the lower edge into folded contrast cuffs.

Waist: Contrast insets under the bust, one on the front and one on the back.

Skirt: Front skirt cut on the fold with pleats laid at the inset seam; back skirt plain. Two hem bands are joined to the lower edge front and back.

Back: Upper back with a centre back seam; lower back in one piece.

Closure: Concealed zip, 20–25 cm, in the left side seam.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker; 2 cm hem turned up and topstitched with a twin needle; seam allowances 1 cm, 0.7 cm at the neckline.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A knit dress assembled from many panels: pleats on the bodice and skirt, a crossover bodice, gathered sleeves with cuffs, a bound neckline and a concealed zip in a knit side seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with low to medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres, plus a knit in a contrasting colour for the trim strips, insets, cuffs and hem bands.

Additional Supplies

Contrast knit fabric
Knit tape or bias binding, 4 cm wide, for the neckline
Concealed zip, 20–25 cm
Twin needle for the hem

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Upper Back – 2 pieces
Lower Back – 1 piece
Middle Front – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
Sleeve – 2 pieces

From contrasting fabric:

Back Inset – 1 piece
Front Inset – 1 piece
Front Trimming – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces
Lower Back Trimming 1 – 1 piece
Lower Back Trimming 2 – 1 piece
Lower Front Trimming 1 – 1 piece
Lower Front Trimming 2 – 1 piece

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics should be stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the center back seam of the Upper Back, press seam allowances to the left and serge.
Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Press the knit tape (or bias binding) in half lengthwise, right side out. Place it on the right side of the back and front neckline, raw edges matching, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold.
On the Middle Front pieces, lay and secure the pleats. Attach the Front Trimming to the Middle Front, press seam allowances towards the trimming, and serge. Attach the Side Front to the trimming, press seam allowances towards the trim strip, and serge.
Overlap the right front over the left, secure at the lower edge, and then treat as one piece.
Attach the Back Inset to the Upper Back, press seam allowances downwards and serge. Attach the Lower Back to the inset, press seam allowances towards the inset and serge.
Attach Lower Back Trimming 1 to the Lower Back, press seam allowances and serge. Attach Lower Back Trimming 2 to Lower Back Trimming 1, press seam allowances and serge.
Attach the Front Inset to the bodice front, press seam allowances downwards and serge. Lay the pleats on the Lower Front according to the markings, attach the Lower Front to the inset, press seam allowances towards the inset and serge.
Attach Lower Front Trimming 1 to the Lower Front, press seam allowances and serge. Attach Lower Front Trimming 2 to Lower Front Trimming 1, press seam allowances and serge.
Stitch the right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Serge the seam allowances of the left side seam on the back and front, stitch the left side seam, inserting the invisible zipper, and press open.
Stitch the sleeve seams, press seam allowances and serge. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the cuff length. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press in half lengthwise right side out, and attach to the lower edge of the sleeve. Press seam allowances and serge.
Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches. Serge and press the seams.
Serge the hem allowance of the garment, fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.