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#905770
#905794

Plus Size Draped Front Asymmetrical Hem Dress

Pattern #905793

A plus-size women's knee-length dress in knit fabric with a crossover bodice gathered into a high waist seam, three-quarter sleeves gathered into bound hems, and a layered skirt: an inner skirt, an outer skirt and a front overlay that falls to an uneven hem. Ties set into the side seams fasten at the back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric of medium or low stretch, made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Plus Size Draped Front Asymmetrical Hem Dress

A plus-size women's knee-length dress in knit fabric with a crossover bodice gathered into a high waist seam, three-quarter sleeves gathered into bound hems, and a layered skirt: an inner skirt, an outer skirt and a front overlay that falls to an uneven hem. Ties set into the side seams fasten at the back.

When To Wear

  • Spring and autumn days, with flat shoes or ankle boots.
  • Family celebrations and daytime events.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: High waist seam under the bust, skirt falling loosely from it in layers.

Length: About knee length, the layers ending at different levels.

Neckline: Rounded neckline formed by the crossover fronts, finished with an interfaced facing that is turned in and topstitched.

Sleeves: Three-quarter set-in sleeves, gathered at the lower edge and bound with knit tape or bias binding.

Front: Two upper front pieces with bust darts and pleats at the upper edge, gathered along the lower edge and lapped right over left; the bias crossover edge is overlocked, turned under and topstitched.

Back: Upper back with a centre back seam.

Skirt: Inner skirt (inner front and back) under an outer skirt (lower front and back). A front skirt overlay with a finished vertical edge is basted to the lower front at the waist. All layers are joined to the bodice in one seam.

Waist: Two ties, folded and stitched on three sides, caught into the outer skirt side seams 1 cm below the waist seam and tied at the back.

Finishing: Hems finished with a narrow rolled overlocked edge, slightly stretched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Sewing knit fabric, pleats and gathers on the crossover bodice, a facing stitched in stages, and several skirt layers joined in one waist seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric of medium or low stretch, made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing (front and back neckline facings)
  • Knit tape or bias binding 4 cm wide for the sleeve hems

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Upper Back – 2 pieces
  • Lower Back – 1 piece
  • Inner Back – 1 piece
  • Upper Front – 2 pieces
  • Inner Front – 1 piece
  • Lower Front – 1 piece
  • Front Skirt – 1 piece
  • Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
  • Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Waistband (tie) – 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing:
  • Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
  • Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also sew pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Fuse fusible interfacing to the back and front neckline facings. Serge the outer edge of the facings.
  2. Upper Front: stitch the bust dart. Cut the dart open, serge and press. Serge the bias (crossover) edge, fold it under and topstitch. Fold the pleats along the marked lines on the upper edge. Along the lower edge, from the edge to the 1st notch, sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather. The gathering amount is indicated on the pattern. Place the right Upper Front over the left, then place the Front Neckline Facing face down on top, aligning the notches on the facing and the bias edge of the front. Stitch the neckline of the front, stopping 7 cm before the shoulder seam. Baste the left and right Upper Front pieces together along the lower edge.
  3. Stitch the center back seam. Serge and press the seam open.
  4. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the upper back and front. Serge and press the seams towards the back.
  5. Stitch the Front Neckline Facing and Back Neckline Facing together at the shoulders. Serge and press the seams. Stitch the back neckline and the unstitched sections of the front neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, press, and topstitch the seam allowance to the facing.
  6. On the Front Skirt, serge, fold under and topstitch the vertical edge. Finish the lower edge with a narrow rolled hem. Baste the Front Skirt to the Lower Front along the upper edge.
  7. Fold the Waistband (tie) pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along 3 sides. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
  8. Place the Lower Front and Lower Back right sides together. Insert the ties into the side seams, 1 cm from the upper edge, and stitch. Serge and press the seam towards the front.
  9. Stitch the side seams of the Inner Back and Inner Front. Serge and press the seams towards the back.
  10. Place the assembled outer skirt (Lower Front and Lower Back) over the inner skirt (Inner Front and Inner Back) and baste them together along the upper edge. Stitch the skirt to the bodice. Press the seam allowances down and serge.
  11. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather. Bind the edge with the knit tape or bias binding. Stitch the sleeve seams. Serge and press the seams.
  12. Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches. Serge and press the seams.
  13. Serge the lower edges of the garment with a narrow rolled hem, slightly stretching the seam.

Features

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Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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