Plus Size Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim

Name: Plus Size Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 904122
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #904122

A women's plus-size fitted collarless jacket for a firm low-stretch knit, with princess seams on the front and back, a low rounded neckline and a three-button front. A gathered strip of silk runs along both front edges and around the neckline. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: firm low-stretch knit (French terry).

Tech. Description

Plus Size Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim

When To Wear

Spring and autumn, over a top or blouse with trousers or a skirt.
Office and daytime wear in place of a tailored jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Just below the waist; hem allowance 3 cm, turned up and topstitched.

Neckline: Low rounded neckline without a collar, faced together with the front edges by front facings joined to a back neck facing.

Front: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front. The front edge seam is understitched to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam; the facings are hand-tacked to the shoulder seams.

Trim: Two silk strips joined at the centre back, gathered along both long edges, stitched face down along a marked line, then folded back and held 0.5 cm from the outer edge, so the ruffle is caught in the facing seam.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves with an eased sleeve cap; hem allowance 3 cm, turned up and topstitched.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Gathering and placing a trim strip evenly along a curved edge, facing the front and neckline with the trim caught in, easing a sleeve cap and making buttonholes in knit fabric.

Fabric Recommendations

Firm low-stretch knit (French terry). Silk as a contrast fabric for the trim.

Additional Supplies

Silk contrast fabric for the trim
3 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From companion fabric:
- Trimming – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Front pieces. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back pieces. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch, finish, and press the center back seam towards the left. Stitch the shoulder seams of the jacket. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
Join the two Trimming pieces along the upper (center back) edge. Press seam allowances open. Stitch along the long edges with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Place the Trimming on the right side of the jacket, right side down, aligning the inner edge of the trim with the marked line. Topstitch the trim. Fold back the trim, aligning the outer edges of the trim and jacket. Secure along the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge.
Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulder seams. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back. Finish the outer edge.
Place the joined facings on the right side of the jacket, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edges, front and back neckline and the bottom of the jacket front, stitching with the jacket front on top. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the facing, 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facing to the wrong side, clipping at curves. Hand-tack the facing to the shoulder seams.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and finish. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Press seam allowances and finish.
Finish the bottom of the jacket, fold inwards and topstitch.
Finish the bottom of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.