Plus Size Dress with Topstitched Trim Bands

Plus Size Dress with Topstitched Trim Bands

A women's plus-size mid-calf dress with a darted bodice joined to a flared skirt at the waist, elbow-length sleeves with flared cuffs and an invisible zip in the centre back seam. Bias tape is topstitched over the centre front bodice seam and the cuff seams, and decorative trim marks the waist seam and two lines across the skirt.

When To Wear

• Summer and early autumn, for daytime events and holidays.
• With sandals or ankle boots and a short jacket or cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped with darts, skirt flaring from the waist seam to the hem.

Length: Mid-calf; hem bound with bias tape, with no hem allowance.

Neckline: Round neck without a collar, bound with folded bias tape attached from the wrong side and topstitched on the right side.

Sleeves: Set-in sleeves to the elbow with a separate flared cuff. Bias tape is topstitched over the cuff seam and binds the lower edge of the cuff.

Front: Upper front in two halves with a centre front seam covered by bias tape; darts in the upper front; the lower front is cut in one piece on the fold.

Back: Upper and lower back in two halves with darts in the upper back and a centre back seam running to the hem.

Closure: Invisible zip in the upper part of the centre back seam.

Skirt: Decorative trim topstitched over the waist seam and along two marked lines across the skirt front and back.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Invisible zip, bias binding on the neckline, hem and cuffs, and evenly topstitched trim along marked lines.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Invisible zip
• Bias tape (approximate length marked on the lower front pattern piece)
• Decorative trim or braid (approximate length marked on the lower front pattern piece)

Cutter’s Must

From main fabric:

1. Upper back – 2 pieces
2. Lower back – 2 pieces
3. Upper front – 2 pieces
4. Lower front – 1 piece on fold
5. Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Cuff – 2 pieces

Important Information

First of all, print the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may be from 90 cm to 150 cm) in order to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces).

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches – they must match.

Assembly Instructions

1. Stitch darts on the upper front and upper back pieces. Trim dart intake to 1 cm, press toward the center and finish.
2. Stitch upper and lower back pieces, press seam allowances upward and finish.
3. Finish separately the center edges of the back. Stitch center back seam from zipper mark to bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert zipper.
4. Stitch center seam of upper front, press seam allowances open and finish. Topstitch bias tape onto the seam. Stitch upper and lower front pieces, press seam allowances upward and finish.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams of the garment, press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
6. Prepare bias tape for neckline finishing equal to neckline length + 4 cm. Fold and press bias tape. Attach bias tape to neckline from the wrong side and stitch. Fold to the right side and topstitch along the edge onto the main fabric.
7. Attach cuff to sleeve, press seam allowances upward and finish. Topstitch bias tape onto the seam. Stitch sleeve seam, press seam allowances toward the back and finish. Set sleeves into armholes, press and finish.
8. Finish the hem of the garment and cuffs with bias tape.
9. Topstitch decorative trim onto the waist seam. Topstitch decoration onto lower panels according to markings.