Plus Size Peplum Vest with Shawl Collar

Plus Size Peplum Vest with Shawl Collar

A sleeveless women's vest with a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, armhole princess seams on the bodice, a waist seam and a flared peplum. Single-breasted, three buttons; armholes bound with bias binding.

When To Wear

• Over a blouse or shirt with trousers or a straight skirt, for the office.
• Worn on its own as a top in warm weather.
• As part of a suit with matching trousers or skirt.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped by princess seams running from the armholes, joined at the waist to a flared peplum.

Length: Peplum ends at the hip; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the upper fronts, joined by a seam at the centre back and set into the back neckline; faced by interfaced front facings and a back neck facing with a matching cut-on collar.

Front: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front; the front edges are faced down to the hem.

Back: Upper back with a centre back seam and princess seams, joined at the waist seam to a lower back cut on the fold.

Finishing: Armholes finished with folded bias binding turned to the inside and topstitched; seams overlocked.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a waist seam with a peplum, a shawl collar joined at the back and faced, and bias-bound armholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Firm dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
• 3 buttons
• Bias binding, 4 cm wide, for the armholes (or cut from the main fabric)

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Upper Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Upper Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Lower Back – 1 piece (on fold)
4. Upper Center Front – 2 pieces
5. Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
6. Lower Front – 2 pieces
7. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
8. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
2. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Important Information

First of all, print the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may be from 90 cm to 150 cm) in order to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces).

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches – they must match.

Assembly Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
2. Stitch the center back seam of the Upper Center Back pieces, press the allowances to the left side, overlock. Stitch the princess seams joining the Upper Side Back pieces, press the allowances towards the center, overlock. Stitch the upper back to the Lower Back, press the allowances upwards, overlock.
3. Stitch the princess seams joining the Upper Center Front and Upper Side Front pieces, press the allowances towards the center, overlock. Stitch the upper fronts to the Lower Front pieces, press the allowances upwards, overlock.
4. Place the fronts right sides together and stitch the center back seam of the collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams, press open and overlock the allowances. Clip the front shoulder seam allowance at the neck point and stitch the collar into the back neckline, press the allowances towards the collar.
5. Stitch the shoulder edges of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings, clip at the corner and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the facing collar into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances open. Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
6. Place the facings on the garment right sides together and stitch along the front edges, the collar and the bottom corners. Trim the allowances at the corners and clip on the curves. Turn the facings to the wrong side, straighten the seams, press. Tack the collar attachment allowances of the garment and the facing together.
7. Cut (if not ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and as long as the armhole + 4 cm. Fold the binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding on the right side of the armhole, raw edges aligned, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the garment. Press the seam.
8. Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
9. Overlock the lower edge of the garment, press it to the wrong side and topstitch.
10. Work buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front.