Plus Size Men's Waistcoat with Welt Pockets

Plus Size Men’s Waistcoat with Buttoned Front, Welt Pockets & Adjustable Back Belt

A men's plus-size lined waistcoat with a V-neck, a four-button front with pointed hem and two welt pockets set into a horizontal dart. The back has a centre seam, waist darts and a buttoned half-belt caught into the darts.

When To Wear

• Under a suit jacket as part of a three-piece suit, for business and formal events.
• On its own over a shirt with tailored trousers, at weddings and family celebrations.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Shaped by a horizontal dart running from each pocket to the side seam and by waist darts in the back.

Length: Covers the waistband of the trousers; the fronts end in points.

Neckline: V-neck, no collar, with front facings and a back neck facing.

Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons.

Pockets: Two single-welt pockets on the lower fronts. The welt is sewn along the lower line of the dart and the pocket bag along the upper line; welt ends are topstitched from the right side.

Back: Two pieces with a centre back seam and waist darts pressed towards the sides. Two straps sewn into the darts meet at the centre back and fasten with a button. Small notch at the centre back hem.

Finishing: Fusible interfacing on the front facings, back neck facing, straps and welts.

Lining: Full lining joined to the facings, stitched to the hem, front edges and neckline in one pass; armholes finished in two stages, back then front; turned through an opening in the left side seam of the lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Welt pockets built into a dart, back straps caught in the darts and a bagged lining with armholes finished in two stages.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing
• 5 buttons (4 for the front, 1 for the back strap)

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
4. Strap – 2 pieces
5. Welt (marked on pattern as "Off-Set Welt") – 2 pieces
6. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting lining patterns, use the main patterns with the following modifications:

1. Back – use Back pattern excluding Back Neckline Facing area, cut 2.
2. Front – use Front pattern excluding Center Front Facing area, cut 2.
3. Pocket Bag – use Pocket Bag pattern, cut 4.

From Fusible Interfacing:

All interfacing pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces.

1. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
2. Back Strap – 2 pieces
3. Welt – 2 pieces
4. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Preparation

• Apply fusible interfacing to Center Front Facings, Strap, Back Neckline Facing, Welts.
• Transfer all markings to fabric: dart placement, welt position, buttonholes, and back strap points.
• Staystitch neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.

2. Back Strap

• Fold each Strap lengthwise along the center, right sides together.
• Stitch along the long edge and one short edge.
• Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the Straps right side out, shape neatly, and press.

3. Back Assembly

• Stitch the center back seam and press seam allowances open.
• Sew the waist darts, inserting the Straps into the darts as marked.
• Press the dart intake toward the side seams.

4. Welt Pockets

• Fold each Welt lengthwise along the center, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
• Stitch the dart from the pocket marking to the side edge. Trim seam allowances to 1 cm, tapering to nothing at the dart point, and press allowances open.
• On the wrong side of the Welt, stitch the lower Pocket Bag in place.
• Attach the Welt to the front along the lower dart line.
• Attach the upper Pocket Bag to the Front along the upper dart line.
• Make diagonal slashes toward the pocket ends, stopping 1–1.5 cm before the pocket end points.
• Turn the Pocket Bags to the wrong side.
• From the wrong side, secure the pocket ends with double backstitching at the base of the corners.
• From the right side, stitch the short ends of the Welt to the garment.
• Align the pocket bags and stitch their edges together to close the pocket.

5. Main Body Assembly

• Stitch the shoulder seams and side seams.
• Press the seam allowances open.

6. Facings & Lining

• Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facings; press seam allowances open.
• Assemble the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Press lining seam allowances open.
• Attach the lining to the Center Front Facings and to the Back Neckline Facing.

7. Lining Attachment

• Place the lining onto the right side of the Front, right sides together, and stitch continuously along the hemline, front edges, and neckline.
• Clip the seam allowances at curved areas and trim the corners.
• Turn the garment right side out.

Armhole Finishing & Closing the Opening

• Finish the armholes in two stages: first stitch the back armhole, then the front armhole.
• Close the turning opening.

Finishing

• Work four buttonholes on the left front.
• Sew four buttons on the right front.
• Work one buttonhole on the back strap and sew the button in place.
• Give a final press — ensuring sharp edges, facings, and crisp hem.