Notched Collar Vest with Epaulets

Button-Front Utility Waistcoat with Notched Collar and Epaulettes

A men's lined hip-length vest with a notched collar on a stand, a topstitched button placket, horizontal in-seam pockets between the upper and lower fronts, buttoned shoulder straps and a waistband fastened with a pointed tab.

When To Wear

• In quilted fabric as a warm outer layer in autumn and spring, over a shirt or sweater.
• For outdoor work, walks and travel, with jeans or work trousers.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight and sleeveless.

Length: Hip length, ending in a waistband.

Collar: Notched collar with small lapels; the collar is cut with a separate stand.

Front: Each front is cut in an upper and a lower part. A separate placket is sewn to the front edge and topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam; four buttons, buttonholes on the left front.

Pockets: Horizontal in-seam pockets in the seam between the upper and lower fronts, with lining pocket bags.

Back: Horizontal back yoke above a centre back panel cut on the fold; curved vertical panel seams.

Waist: Two-layer waistband all round, extended into a pointed tab at the front with a button.

Finishing: Shoulder straps topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge, caught in the armhole and buttoned at the neck end.

Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces less the facings, sewn to the front facings and back neck facing; armholes finished by the lining in two stages, front then back.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A notched collar with a stand set between the vest and the facings, in-seam pockets in a horizontal seam, armholes bagged with the lining and a waistband with a tab.

Fabric Recommendations

Jacket fabrics quilted with polyester wadding, of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric
• 7 buttons (4 for the front, 2 for the shoulder straps, 1 for the waistband)

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Center Back – 1 piece on fold
2. Upper Front – 2 pieces
3. Lower Front – 2 pieces
4. Back Yoke – 1 piece
5. Collar - 2 pieces
6. Stand Collar - 2 pieces
7. Placket – 2 pieces
8. Epaulettes (marked on pattern as “Shoulder Strap”) – 4 pieces
9. Waistband – 2 pieces
10. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
11. Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece

From Lining Fabric:

Lining pieces are cut using the main pattern pieces, excluding the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

1. Center Back – 1 piece on fold
2. Upper Front – 2 pieces
3. Back Yoke – 1 piece
4. Lower Front – 2 pieces
5. Pocket Bag – 4 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Pocket Construction & Front Assembly

Place the Pocket Bag onto the Lower Front piece, right sides together, and stitch, starting and ending exactly at the pocket markings.

Attach the Pocket Bag to the Upper Front piece in the same manner.

Join the front pieces together, press the seam allowances open.

Stitch the Pocket Bag edges together to complete the pocket.

2. Placket Attachment

Attach the Placket to the front piece.
Press the seam allowance toward the Placket and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.

3. Back Panel Seam

Stitch the panel seams of the back.

Press the seam allowances open.

4. Back Yoke

Attach the Back Yoke to the back.

Press the seam allowance upward toward the Back Yoke.

5. Shoulder Seams

Stitch the shoulder seams.

Press the seam allowances toward the back.

6. Facings Assembly

Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.

Press the seam allowances open.

7. Collar Assembly

Attach the Stand Collar to the Collar, matching notches; press the seam allowances open.

Place the upper and lower collars right sides together and stitch the collar ends and outer edges, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the marked points.

Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the collar right side out, and press carefully.

8. Center Front Facings & Lapel

Place the Center Front Facings onto the vest, right sides together.

Stitch along the front edges and lapel.

Trim the seam allowances, clip into the corner, turn right side out, and press neatly.

9. Collar Assembly

Set the upper collar into the neckline of the outer garment and press the seam allowances open.

Set the lower collar into the neckline of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, and press the seam allowances open.

Secure the collar seam allowances to each other by hand.

10. Epaulettes

Place the Epaulette pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edges.

Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and press.

Topstitch around the perimeter 0.2 cm from the edge.

Position the Epaulette over the shoulder seam and secure it to the garment along the armhole edge.

11. Lining Assembly

Stitch the seams of the lining pieces together.

12. Attach Lining & Finish Armholes

Attach the lining to the Back Neckline Facing and to the Center Front Facings.

Finish the armholes in two stages: first stitch the front armhole, then stitch the back armhole.

13. Waistband

Place the Waistband pieces right sides together and stitch along one short edge, the lower edge, and the corner up to the marked point. Clip the seam allowance at the marking.

Attach the outer side of the Waistband to the waistcoat. Turn the seam allowance of the inner side to the inside and topstitch it into the seam where the outer side was attached.

14. Buttonholes & Buttons

Work buttonholes on the left front.

Sew buttons onto the right front, the epaulettes, and the Waistband.