Professional made-to-measure digital sewing patterns — PDF · PLT · DXF AAMA

Minervainervabeta
#5999
#8004

Single-Breasted Tailcoat with Double-Button Front

Pattern #6081
Tech. Description

Single-Breasted Tailcoat with Double-Button Front

Introducing a tailcoat pattern for the classic formal tailcoat with sharp cutaway front and extended tails – Timeless Elegance with Refined Detailing.

When To Wear

This tailcoat blends tradition with sophistication, making it perfect for:

  • Formal Occasions: Weddings, galas, and black-tie events where timeless tailoring is essential.
  • Stage & Performance: Ideal for musicians, performers, or costume design requiring a dramatic, structured coat.
  • Ceremonial Wear: Adds presence and formality for uniforms and ceremonial dress codes.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Structured, tailored body with fitted waist and tails.

Front: Hook & Eye closure with decorative double-button front, peaked hem and left welt chest pocket.

Lapels: Notched lapels with crisp edge finish for a formal effect.

Back: Shaped seams and waist seam leading into curved tails with center self-facing vent.

Sleeves: Full-length two-piece sleeves with decorative vents for a clean, traditional fit.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Precision tailoring skills are required, including structured pressing, interfacing application, and careful assembly of multiple panels.

Fabric Recommendations

Structured woven fabrics that support shaping and tailored finishes:

  • Wool suiting, Melton, or cavalry twill
  • Heavyweight gabardine or serge
  • Velvet or brocade for evening/formal wear

Lining: satin, viscose, or acetate for interior finish

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing
  • Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
  • 6 buttons
  • Hook & Eye
  • Lining fabric

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

  1. Back – 2 pieces
  2. Side Back – 2 pieces
  3. Front – 2 pieces
  4. Side - 2 pieces
  5. Tail – 2 pieces
  6. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
  7. Collar – 2 pieces
  8. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
  9. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
  10. Chest Welt (marked on pattern as “Off-set Welt) – 1 piece

From Lining Fabric:

Lining pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces with the following modifications:

  1. Back lining – use Back pattern, add a 2 cm ease pleat at center back, exclude vent extension, cut 2.
  2. Front lining - use Front pattern, exclude front facing area, cut 2.
  3. Side Back lining – use Side Back pattern without any modifications, cut 2.
  4. Side – use Side pattern without any modifications, cut 2.
  5. Tail – use Tail pattern without any modifications, cut 2.
  6. Upper Sleeve - use Upper Sleeve pattern, exclude vent extension, cut 2.
  7. Lower Sleeve - use Lower Sleeve pattern, exclude vent extension, cut 2.
  8. Upper Pocket Lining – 2 pieces.
  9. Shorten all hems by 1–1.5 cm to allow for turn of cloth and prevent the lining from showing.

From Fusible Interfacing:

Cut the following using the corresponding main pattern pieces:

  1. Front – 2 pieces
  2. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
  3. Collar – 2 pieces
  4. Chest Welt – 1 piece
  5. Armhole area of the Side
  6. Armhole area of the Side Back
  7. Vent area
  8. Hem allowances of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

  • Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
  • Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
  • For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

Preparation

Apply fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Fronts, armhole areas of the Side and Side Back, vent extensions, Collars, sleeve hem allowances, chest welt.

Apply a 1 cm-wide strip of fusible stay tape along the roll line of each lapel.

Mark all notches, dart points, and vent lines clearly.

Collar Assembly

Place the Collar pieces right sides together, matching all notches.

Stitch along the outer edges.

Trim and grade the seam allowances, clip the corners, turn right side out, and press, rolling the seam slightly to the underside.

Tail Attachment

Stitch the Tail pieces to the Side Back pieces.

Press the seam allowances open.

Front Assembly

Stitch darts on the fronts, pressing intake toward the center.

Construct the welt pocket: attach welt, insert pocket bag (from lining), and secure. Press neatly.

Sew Sides to fronts, press allowances open.

Center Back Vent (Self-Facing Construction)

Fold the vent extensions on each Center Back piece along the marked lines and press.

With right sides together, stitch the upper edge of each vent extension along the marked line.

Trim and clip the seam allowances at the corners, turn the vent extensions right side out, straighten the corners, and press.

Sew the center back seam from the neckline down to the vent start point.

Clip the seam allowances at the vent and press them open.

Lay the left vent over the right back, align the vent edges and secure the vent by basting.

Front Facing Attachment

Place the Center Front Facing right sides together with the Front, aligning the edges. Pin in place.

Stitch along the front edge (front opening), sewing from the side of the garment up to the notch marking the end of the collar attachment.

Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the garment strictly along the marked hem fold line.

Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edges.

Understitch the seam allowances along the front edge:

  • on the fastening section, stitch the seam allowances to the facing;
  • on the lapel section, stitch the seam allowances to the front.

Position the understitching approximately 0.2 cm from the seam.

Turn the front edges right side out and carefully shape the edges.

Shaped Back Seams

Stitch the shaped panel seams joining the Back to the Side Back.

Press the seam allowances open.

Shoulder and Side Seams

Sew and press open the shoulder and side seams.

Sleeve Construction

Sew the elbow seam of the sleeve and stitch the vent corners on the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve pieces.

Press the elbow seam open, clip as required, and press the vent into position.

Front Sleeve Seam

Sew and press open the front sleeve seam.

Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side.

Set Sleeves

Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.

Attach shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Collar Attachment

Attach the lower collar piece to the neckline of the tailcoat.

Attach the upper collar piece to the assembled facing.

Lining Assembly

Sew the lining seams and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam.

Sew the center back seam of the lining down to the marked vent start point, corresponding to the outer garment.

Attach the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and back neckline.

Press the collar seam allowances open and secure them close to the seam.

Front Hem Lining

Attach the lining to the lower edge of the front.

Sleeve Hem, Vent, and Lower Back Lining

Turn up the sleeve lining hems and attach them to the sleeve hem allowances of the tailcoat. Turn the excess lining downward and press.

Smooth the lining into position inside the garment.

Finish the vent allowances using the seam allowances of the lining center back seam.

Shape the upper vent corners carefully.

Secure the left upper vent corner to the right back with invisible stitches, and the right upper vent corner to the left back lining.

Through the opening in the sleeve lining, attach the remaining unsewn section of the Tail side edge and lower back edge to the lining.

Closure

Attach an invisible hook-and-eye (or inside button + loop) at the waistline inside the front overlap.

Sew decorative front buttons through the outer layer only (no buttonholes).

Final Finishing

Close the opening in the sleeve lining with a neat machine stitch or by hand.

Turn the garment right side out and carefully shape all edges and corners, ensuring the front edges, collar, and vent are fully turned and properly aligned.

Press the garment thoroughly:

  • shape the collar and lapels
  • press the front edges
  • press the hem
  • press the center back vent, ensuring the overlap lies flat and symmetrical

Roll the seams slightly toward the underside where appropriate to prevent them from being visible on the right side.

Ensure the lining is distributed evenly inside the garment and does not pull or distort the outer fabric.

Optionally, secure the lining with thread tacks at the armholes and side seams to prevent shifting during wear.

Final Check

Verify that all edges are clean, sharp, and symmetrical.

Ensure the hem hangs evenly and the garment maintains a balanced silhouette.

Give the garment a final press, ensuring a crisp, tailored appearance.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

This pattern is drafted to fit a chest of 88–112 cm and a height of 164–182 cm.

If your measurements fall outside this range, you're still welcome to order, but the same accuracy is not guaranteed.

Sewn from this pattern

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