Double-Breasted Notched Lapel Tailcoat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
  • Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
  • SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
  • FLOUNCE – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
  • FACING – 2 QTY
  • Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
  • Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
  • COLLAR – 2 QTY
  • Welt – 1 QTY
  • Underlay – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
  • BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
  • Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
  • SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
  • FLOUNCE – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
  • Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
  • Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
  • Upper pocket bag – 2 QTY
• Attention! The FRONT PANEL from LINING fabric is cut WITHOUT considering the FACING width. The BACK PANEL and SLEEVE pieces from LINING are cut WITHOUT considering the vent width.
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
  • FACING – 2 QTY
  • COLLAR – 1 QTY
  • Welt – 1 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the respective pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the FRONT PANEL pieces, slash the depths along, press open.
3. Mark the position of the upper pocket. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong side in. Stitch the lower pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the FRONT PANEL along the lower pocket marking line. Press the lower edge of the underlay to the wrong side, place the underlay on the upper pocket bag and stitch along the fold line. Attach the upper pocket bag with the underlay to the FRONT PANEL along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and pocket bags to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags.
4. Attach the SIDE PANEL to the FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the side BACK PANEL to the SIDE PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the FLOUNCE to the FRONT PANEL and side pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. The stitching should start or end exactly at the marked line of the side edge of the FLOUNCE.
5. On the BACK PANEL pieces, fuse the vent from the wrong side. Fold the BACK PANEL pieces along the vent edge line, right sides together, and stitch the upper corner. The stitching should start or end exactly at the marked line for stitching the vent. Turn the vent to the right side, straighten, press. Stitch the center back seam, slash SEAM ALLOWANCES at the vent, press open. Overlap the upper corner of the left vent onto the right BACK PANEL.
6. Attach the SIDE PANEL with the FLOUNCE to the BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
7. Stitch shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
8. Fold the FACINGS with the main garment, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and lapels up to the NOTCH indicating the end of COLLAR attachment. Slash SEAM ALLOWANCES at the NOTCH, turn the garment to the right side, straighten, press.
9. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and the vent extension. Slash SEAM ALLOWANCES at the vent, press open in the upper part of the SLEEVE, press the vent onto the upper part of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front SLEEVE seam. Along the upper edge of the SLEEVE cap, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Ease the fullness, set the SLEEVES into the armhole, matching NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads.
10. Fold the COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the COLLAR to the right side, straighten and press.
11. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening for subsequent turning in the left princess seam of the BACK PANEL. The center back LINING seam should be stitched up to the marked beginning of the vent relative to the main fabric. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGS.
12. Attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the main garment, and the lower COLLAR to the neckline of the LINING and FACINGS. Press the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES open, secure them together close to the seams.
13. Finish the bottom of the FRONT PANEL with LINING.
14. Turn under the LINING SLEEVES and attach them to the SLEEVE hem allowance, turn the excess LINING fabric down and press. Turn the garment right side out, smooth the LINING. Finish the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES with the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the center back LINING seam. Straighten the upper corners of the vents. Hand stitch the left corner with blind stitches to the right BACK PANEL, and the right corner to the left BACK PANEL LINING. Finish the remaining unstitched section of the side edge of the FLOUNCES and the bottom of the BACK PANEL with LINING through the technological opening.
15. Turn the garment through the opening in the princess seam. Straighten the side seams of the FLOUNCE and press. Stitch the technological opening closed.
16. On the left FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the right, sew on buttons. Sew buttons on the SLEEVE vents.