Men's Cargo Trousers with Elastic Waistband

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Back patch pocket flap – 4 QTY
• 2. Back patch pocket – 2 QTY
• 3. Front patch pocket flap – 4 QTY
• 4. Front patch pocket FACING – 2 QTY
• 5. Front patch pocket – 4 QTY
• 8. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 9. Lower front panel – 2 QTY
• 10. Cut-out SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 11. Upper pocket FACING – 2 QTY
• 12. Upper pocket underlay – 2 QTY
• 15. Fly shield – 1 QTY
• 16. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 17. Yoke – 2 QTY
• 18. Waistband – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 6. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 7. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 13. Upper pocket upper pocket bag – 2 QTY
• 14. Upper pocket lower pocket bag – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: flap, FACING, fly shield, waistband.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the waistband, fly shield, flaps, and pocket FACINGs. (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed onto the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
2. Place flap pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along three sides. Turn right side out, baste, press, and topstitch.
3. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper edges of the back and front patch pockets to the wrong side, fold under, and topstitch.
4. Topstitch Velcro tape to the flap and pockets.
5. Press the open edges of the back pockets inwards, place on the back panels according to markings, and stitch along the edge.
6. On each front patch pocket FACING, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the short edges to the wrong side and topstitch.
7. Stitch the FACING to the side and bottom edges of the pocket, right side to right side, notching the FACING's SEAM ALLOWANCES at the lower corners of the pocket.
8. Place the FACING under the pocket, and topstitch the pocket edges close to the edge.
9. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the open longitudinal edge of the pocket FACING to the wrong side.
10. Place the pocket edges on the pressed edge of the FACING and press.
11. Topstitch the FACING to the FRONT PANEL of the trousers.
12. Stitch the lower parts to the front panels.
13. Stitch the yokes to the back panels, inserting the flaps according to the markings. Press the seams towards the yokes and topstitch.
14. On the wrong side of the front panels, press a 4 cm wide strip of interfacing over the pocket marking.
15. Topstitch the underlay to the LINING.
16. Pin the pocket bags to the right side along the marked pocket opening line, edges together. Stitch along the marking.
17. Cut the FRONT PANEL of the trousers lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the pocket bags!
18. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the trousers.
19. Turn the pocket bags to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste.
20. From the right side of the trousers, stitch precisely into the seam where the pocket bags were attached.
21. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side and topstitch them to the pocket bags precisely from the ends of one stitching line to the ends of the other.
22. Press the pocket bags downwards, align, and stitch together.
23. Press the pocket FACING lengthwise in the middle, right side out.
24. Stitch the SIDE PANEL to the FRONT PANEL, inserting the FACING between them.
25. Place the LINING front and back panel pieces onto the main pieces, baste along the edges, and then treat as one piece.
26. Stitch the center front seam of the front panels from the fastener down 3-4 cm.
27. On the left trouser leg, press the integral FACING to the wrong side along the center line, and on the right leg, trim the FACING, leaving a 1 cm SEAM ALLOWANCE. Press this SEAM ALLOWANCE to the wrong side and baste one side of the ZIPPER, placing the teeth close to the fold.
28. Fold the fly shield lengthwise in the middle, right side out, and overcast the longitudinal and rounded folds. Baste the overcast edge, placing it under the right side of the opening and the ZIPPER.
29. Topstitch the right side close to the edge, attaching the ZIPPER and the fly shield.
30. Pin the center lines together. Pin the free ZIPPER tape to the FACING of the left side and stitch, without catching the FRONT PANEL.
31. Then topstitch the left panel according to the marking, catching the FACING with the ZIPPER.
32. Stitch the side and inseams.
33. Stitch the unstitched section of the center front seam and, without breaking the stitching, the center back seam, and overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
34. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, attaching the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the fastener to the fly shield.
35. Fold the waistband lengthwise in the middle and stitch the front short edges.
36. Insert elastic tape into the waistband, securing it according to the marking.
37. Turn under the inner edge of the waistband and topstitch into the attachment seam.
38. Punch eyelets in the lower parts of the trousers.
39. Press the hem of the trousers inwards, fold under the edges, and topstitch.
40. Insert the cord.
41. Make a buttonhole on the left side of the waistband.
42. Sew a button on the right side.