Classic Single-Breasted Coat with Chest Welt Pocket, Double-Welt Flap Pockets & Velvet Collar
Introducing a digital men's sewing pattern for the single-breasted coat with velvet collar option – Classic Tailoring Meets Refined Detail.
When To Wear
This knee-length coat delivers polished warmth and timeless sophistication:
- City Winters: Layer over business suits or fine knitwear for confident urban style.
- Evening Engagements: Pair with tailored trousers or tuxedo separates for formal nights out.
- Everyday Cold Weather: Elevate casual looks with jeans or chinos while staying comfortably warm.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Long, straight-cut shape with a subtle waist contour for a sharp tailored profile.
Closure: Center front closure with four large buttons for a clean, masculine finish.
Collar & Lapel: Traditional notched lapel with optional velvet or corduroy upper-collar for luxurious contrast.
Pockets: Two front flap hip pockets, one small ticket pocket, and one welt chest pocket for added functionality.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elegant shaping and optional buttoned vent detail.
Back: Center back seam with vent for movement.
Lining & Structure: Full lining with padded shoulders for professional structure.
Style: Distinguished winter essential with heritage detailing—ideal for wool coatings and contrast fabrics.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Best for sewists experienced in tailored coats, structured collars, flap pockets, and lining assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
Use warm, structured coating fabrics to preserve the tailored silhouette:
- Wool or wool-blend coating (twill, Melton, or brushed)
- Semi-wool coatings with or without nap
- Velvet or corduroy for the upper collar (optional contrast)
- Lining for the full interior
Avoid soft, drapey fabrics that compromise structure.
Additional Supplies
- Wool coating
- Velvet (optional collar)
- Nonwoven lower collar fabric
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Padding strip (synthetic wadding)
- Buttons: 4 large (25 mm) for front closure, 8 small (12 mm) for sleeve vents
- Shoulder pads: 1 pair
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Small Pocket Flap – 1 piece
- Chest Pocket Welt (marked on pattern as “Pocket Off-Set Welt”) – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Small Pocket Welts – cut 2 rectangles (12 x 4 cm)
- Pocket Welt Facings – cut 4 rectangles (17.5 x 4 cm)
- Chest Pocket Bag - 1 piece
- Small Pocket Bag – cut 1 rectangle (12 x 13 cm)
- Pocket Bag – cut 2 rectangles (17.5 x 19 cm)
From Velvet:
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
From Nonwoven Fabric:
Lower Collar (with integrated stand collar) – 1 piece
From Lining Fabric:
For drafting the lining patterns, use the following patterns with the following modifications:
- Back lining - use Back pattern, add 2 cm ease pleat at center back, excluding vent extensions; cut 2.
- Front lining: use Front pattern, excluding front facing area, cut 2.
- Upper Sleeve - use Upper Sleeve pattern excluding vent extension; cut 2.
- Lower Sleeve - use Lower Sleeve pattern excluding vent extension; cut 2.
- Pocket Flap - cut 2.
- Small Pocket Flap – cut 1.
- Chest Pocket Bag - cut 1.
- Small Pocket Bag – cut 1 rectangle (12 x 13 cm).
- Pocket Bag - cut 2 rectangles (17.5 x 19 cm).
- Shorten the lining length by 2 cm at the hem.
From Fusible Interfacing:
For drafting the lining patterns, use the following patterns
- Front – cut 2.
- Center Front Facing – cut 2.
- Pocket Flaps – cut 3.
- Chest Pocket Welt – cut 1.
- Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves and vent extensions (copy their length and width and cut according to it).
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
Preparation
- Fuse Interfacing
From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to the Fronts, Center Front Facings, half the height of the Chest Welt, hem, sleeve hems and vent extensions. (Use a hot iron and press firmly.)
Body Shaping
- Sew and press open the front darts.
Chest Welt Pocket
- On the left Front, construct a single-welt breast pocket:
- Fold welt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch short ends, trim corners, turn, and press.
- Place welt face down along pocket marking.
- Layer pocket bag (lining fabric) over welt, and main fabric pocket bag above, facing upward.
- Stitch 5 mm on each side of marking.
- Slash between stitching, clip diagonally to corners, turn to inside.
- Zigzag or hand-stitch welt’s free edge to lining pocket bag.
- Align pocket bags, stitch around contour.
- From right side, secure welt ends to garment.
Small Pocket & Hip Pockets
- Pocket Flaps
- Stitch each flap to its lining, turn right side out, and press.
- Double-Welt Pockets with Flaps
- Press the welts lengthwise, right sides together.
- Pin welts to the Front along the placement lines, one facing upward, one downward.
- Place the pocket bag of lining fabric on the lower welt; place the main pocket bag on the upper welt with the flap inserted face up between the upper welt and the main pocket bag.
- Stitch 5 mm on each side of the markings.
- Cut the pocket opening through the center between stitching lines, clipping diagonally into the corners.
- Turn pocket bags to the inside and fold welts to form 1 cm lips.
- Serge-stitch the free edges of the welts to the pocket bags.
- Align pocket bags and stitch around the perimeter.
- From the wrong side, stitch the ends of the welts to the triangular seam allowances.
- Repeat the process for the right-side pocket.
Main Assembly
- Join center back seam to the top of the vent.
- Join side seams and shoulder seams; press allowances open.
Vent
- Turn the left vent facing to the right side along the hem allowance; stitch along the hem foldline and turn right side out.
- Turn the hem allowance of the right back to the right side along the vent facing edge; stitch and turn.
- Lay the vent to the left side and secure at the upper edge with a diagonal reinforcement stitch.
Collar
- Join the Stand Collar to the Upper Collar; press allowances open.
- Steam-shape the Lower Collar cut from non-woven fabric over a damp press cloth to set the identical to Upper Collar shape.
- Place the upper edge of the Lower Collar wrong side to the right side of the Upper Collar and stitch with a fine zigzag.
- With right sides together, sew the Upper and Lower Collars along the ends. Turn right side out and press.
Facings
- Join the Center Front Facings to the Upper Collar; press seam allowances upward.
- With right sides together, place the Center Front Facing + Upper Collar unit over the coat body, align edges, and stitch around the front edges and collar.
- Turn right side out and press.
- Topstitch 1 cm along the front edges and lapels.
Sleeves
- Two-Piece Sleeve with Vent
- Stitch Upper and Lower sleeve together to the vent notch, easing the upper sleeve as required; press allowances open.
- Turn sleeve right side out.
- Turn the vent seam allowances and sleeve hem to the right side, stitch the vent corner diagonally, trim excess within 1 cm of the seam, and press allowances open.
- Turn hem and vent allowances to the inside, hand-stitch with a cross-stitch, and form the vent overlap.
- Sleeve Cap
- Ease-stitch between sleeve cap notches and pull threads to fit the armhole. Steam-shrink the fullness at the cap.
- Join the sleeve seam and press open.
- Set sleeves into the armholes, stitching from the sleeve side.
- Divide sleeve-head wadding (if used) and hand-stitch along the sleeve caps.
Hems
- Turn up hem allowances and hand-stitch invisibly.
- Sew in shoulder pads.
Lining
- Sew center back lining seam.
- Assemble lining as for the coat, leaving a 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam.
- Create a center back pleat for wearing ease and secure at neckline and above the hem.
- With right sides together, sew lining to the coat along facings and neckline.
- Form a jump pleat at the hem and stitch lining to the hem edge, catching the lining to the vent facings. (Clip horizontally at the base of the left vent lining as needed.)
- Turn the coat right side out through the sleeve opening and close the opening.
Finishing
- Work buttonholes on the left Front and sew buttons on the right Front and sleeve vents.
- Work non-cut decorative buttonholes on sleeves and secure with buttons.
