Sheath Dress with V-Shaped Front Inset
A knee-length women's sheath dress with a seam under the bust. The upper front is made of lined centre and side pieces that frame a deep V, filled with a separate front inset. Three-quarter sleeves with a placket opening, an invisible zip at the centre back and a back vent.
When To Wear
- At the office, on its own or under a jacket.
- Daytime events and dinners in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted sheath, shaped by darts in the lower front, upper back and lower back, with a horizontal seam under the bust at front and back.
Length: Knee length.
Neckline: Wide neckline with a deep V outlined by the upper fronts. The V is filled with a front inset whose top edge is turned under and topstitched; a small trim piece is sewn in at the base of the V. The back neckline is finished with an interfaced facing.
Front: Upper front in centre and side pieces, each sewn to its lining along the outer edge and turned through; the lower front is one piece with darts.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length, set-in with the cap eased, with a sleeve placket opening; hem turned up twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Back: Centre back seam with an invisible zip from the neckline to the notch, and an interfaced lapped vent at the hem.
Lining: Only the upper front pieces (centre and side) are lined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A layered, partly lined upper front with an inset, an invisible zip, a lapped back vent and sleeve placket openings.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (upper front)
- Fusible interfacing (back neckline facing, vent, sleeve plackets)
- Invisible zip for the centre back
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 1 piece
- Center Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Placket – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Back vent strips – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts on the upper back, lower back and lower front. Press the darts towards the center back and center front respectively.
- Serge the upper edge of the front inset. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Place the front trim pieces right sides together and stitch along the two outer edges. Turn right side out, trimming the corner, and press. Stitch the center upper front to its lining along the outer edge, sandwiching the front inset between them. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the side upper front to its lining along the outer edge, sandwiching the center upper front (with lining) between them. From now on, treat the front and lining as one piece.
- Stitch the upper front to the lower front. Serge and press the seam allowances downwards. Stitch the upper back to the lower back. Press seam allowances downwards and serge.
- On the left lower back, trim 5 cm off along the vertical edge of the vent. Fuse interfacing to the vent area on the wrong side of both lower back pieces. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left lower back along the vent fold line; on the right lower back, press only the vent allowance (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure them at the upper edge of the vent. Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Serge the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper notch to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent allowance on the right lower back. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the invisible zipper from the upper edge to the notch.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the back neckline, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the seam allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, sandwiching the front between the back and the back neckline facing. Press the seam allowances towards the back and serge. Turn the facing to the wrong side. Stitch the side seams. Serge and press seam allowances towards the back.
- Fold the lower edge of the sleeve twice by 1 cm and topstitch. Sleeve slit: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping into the corner at the top of the cut. Fold the section from the cut to the marked line, measuring 1.7 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the sleeve placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitch the corner up to the cross mark and stitch the lower edge. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching; at the end of the stitching, clip the seam allowance. Turn the placket right side out, press, and edgestitch 0.1 cm along the fold from the bottom up to the cross mark. Fold the placket with the sleeve right sides together and attach the inner side along the marked line. At the end of the stitching, clip the sleeve across from the cut to the stitching line. Fold the placket to the right side, fold the open edge, and attach. Align the placket with the marked line on the sleeve and topstitch the upper corner along its outline and along the cross mark.
- Stitch and serge the sleeve seams. Set in the sleeves, easing the cap. Serge and press seam allowances.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
