Cropped Collarless Jacket with Shoulder Bow Detail
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a cropped, collarless jacket featuring a distinctive pleated bow detail on the shoulder and a tailored silhouette.
When To Wear
This stylish jacket is perfect for adding a refined touch to various ensembles, making it an ideal choice for:
- Office & Business Casual: Elevates professional attire with its structured yet elegant design.
- Semi-Formal Gatherings: The unique shoulder detail and tailored fit make it suitable for special events.
- Chic Everyday Wear: A sophisticated layering piece to add polish to casual outfits.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A tailored, fitted silhouette with a contemporary cropped length.
Neckline: A smooth, rounded collarless neckline for a clean finish.
Closure: Single-breasted front with three prominent button closures.
Shoulder Detail: A distinctive, artfully pleated bow detail adorns one shoulder, designed to be crafted from a contrasting, draping fabric.
Sleeves: Classic long set-in sleeves for a clean, tailored arm line.
Back: A clean, unadorned back panel maintaining the jacket's sleek profile.
Length: Cropped, finishing at or just above the natural waist for a contemporary silhouette.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in dart construction, setting two-piece sleeves, working with fusible interfacing and lining, and precise finishing of details like the shoulder bow and button placket.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics that offer structure for the main body and a fluid drape for the bow detail:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers (e.g., tweed, gabardine, wool blends)
- Light draping fabric for the bow (e.g., silk, satin, challis, crepe)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
- Underlap – 2 QTY
- Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
- Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
- FACING – 4 QTY
- From decorative fabric:
- Bow – 1 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
- Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
ATTENTION: BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces are cut by subtracting the width of the neckline FACING and underlap, respectively.
FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: underlap, FACINGS, back neckline FACING.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the underlap, back neckline FACING, and FACINGS with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Stitch darts on the BACK PANEL, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side.
- Mark and stitch darts on the FRONT PANEL. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES and press towards the side seam.
- Mark the slit location on the right FRONT PANEL with three lines. Fuse this area with a GRAIN LINE strip. Fold the FACINGS in half with the wrong side in and press. Mark a guide line on the FACING parallel to the FACING fold for attachment. Stitch the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel lines of the slit marking. Check the correctness of FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the slit. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the ends. Turn the FACINGS to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed folds of the FACINGS meet flush. Secure the ends of the slit from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Press.
- Overlock the long edges and one short edge of the bow with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch along the raw edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
- Place the underlap on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge and the neckline area of the FRONT PANEL, stopping 2-3 cm from the neckline edge, inserting the bow on the right FRONT PANEL. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Stitch the lower edges of the underlaps to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim seams at corners. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten seams, press.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and underlap. Stitch the back and FRONT PANEL neckline. Turn the FACING to the wrong side, straighten seams and press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES, easing them in the upper part of the SLEEVE cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
- Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the underlaps and the back neckline FACING.
- Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and the SLEEVE. Turn the jacket through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.
- Pass the bow through the slits, arrange it nicely, and attach it to the jacket.
