Fitted Ruffle Collar Dress with Contrast Sleeves
Introducing an elegant women's sewing pattern for a fitted, lined dress with princess seams, a collar whose long end is pleated into a cascading jabot ruffle, and long raglan sleeves in contrasting knit fabric.
When To Wear
This sophisticated dress is versatile for various occasions, including:
- Professional Settings: Its tailored silhouette and refined details make it ideal for the office or business meetings.
- Evening & Cocktail Events: The fabric contrast and unique design elements are perfect for dressier occasions.
- Special Occasions: a chic choice for luncheons, gallery openings, or any event where polished style is desired.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a chic, fitted dress designed to highlight the figure with princess seams on both the front and back.
Neckline & Collar: a one-piece collar; its long end is gathered into pleats that form a cascading jabot ruffle down the center front. The collar fastens with a button and a rouleau loop.
Sleeves: Long raglan sleeves cut in two parts (front and back sleeve) from a contrasting knit fabric, adding a modern textural and color dimension.
Front: Princess seams frame the jabot ruffle; a lined slit at the center front neckline sits under the collar.
Back: Princess seams and a center back seam ending in a vent at the hem for ease of movement.
Closure: an invisible zipper in the left side seam, extending into the underarm seam of the left sleeve.
Length: a refined knee-length cut offers a versatile and sophisticated look.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves working with different fabric types, inserting an invisible zipper, constructing princess seams and raglan sleeves, and finishing a lined garment with a back vent.
Fabric Recommendations
To achieve the desired drape and contrast, select fabrics as follows:
- For the main dress body: Thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers.
- For the sleeves: Knit fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zipper
- Lining fabric
- 1 button
- Fusible interfacing (for the back vent)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- From knit fabric:
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
Lining pieces are cut from the same patterns, 5 cm shorter than the main fabric pieces. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance of the dress and sleeves – 3 cm.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back pieces, press the seam allowances towards the center and serge. On both Center Back pieces, fuse interfacing to the vent area on the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center back seam line (the vent fold line). Serge the center back edge of each piece separately, serging the vent edges at the same time. Stitch the center back seam from the top edge down to the vent. Clip the seam allowance at the vent corner on the right piece. Press the center back seam allowances open. Fold the edge of the right vent extension under by 1 cm and topstitch. Press the vent allowances towards the left side and stitch across the top of the vent.
- Stitch the princess seams and the center back seam of the back lining. Press the seam allowances and serge. Cut out the opening for the vent and serge the edge. Press the lower edge to the wrong side twice and topstitch. Place the lining on the main back with wrong sides together, baste along the edges and then treat as one piece.
- Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Front pieces, press the seam allowances towards the center and serge. Do the same for the front lining. Place the lining on the main front with right sides together, mark the neckline slit line and stitch 0.1 cm to the left and right of it, tapering to nothing at the bottom point. Cut the slit between the stitching lines, turn the lining to the inside and press. Press the lower edge of the lining to the wrong side twice and topstitch. Baste the lining to the main front along the edges and then treat as one piece.
- Stitch the Back Sleeves to the back and the Front Sleeves to the front. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeves and serge.
- Stitch the upper (shoulder) seams of the sleeves. Press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge the lower edges of the left sleeve and the left side edges. Stitch the sleeve from the lower edge up to the upper zipper mark, and from the lower zipper mark down to the hem of the dress; press the seam allowances open, pressing the zipper opening allowances as well. Insert the invisible zipper. Stitch the right sleeve underarm seam and the right side seam in one continuous seam, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 5 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and press into a rouleau. Form a loop to fit the button. Fold the Collar in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch the ends and the inner edge up to the long mark, inserting the loop. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Clip the seam allowances at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, push out the corners and press. Stitch the outer edge of the collar to the neckline and press the seam towards the collar. Turn under the open inner edge of the collar and topstitch it into the collar attachment seam. Try the dress on, form the jabot and tack the pleats together. Sew the button under the collar to match the loop.
- Serge the hem allowances of the dress and the sleeves, press them to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
