Three-Quarter Sleeve Draped Keyhole Sheath Dress
A women's knee-length sheath dress with a centre front seam that opens into a keyhole slit at the neckline, where the neck edge is drawn through a fabric loop into soft folds. Princess seams on the front and back, back shoulder darts, three-quarter sleeves, a concealed zip and a vent at the centre back.
When To Wear
- At the office and for business meetings.
- For dinners, theatre and daytime events in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted sheath shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back, with no waist seam.
Length: Knee length.
Neckline: Round neckline with a keyhole slit at the centre front. The front neck edge and the slit are interfaced, turned under and blind-stitched; the front neck edge is gathered through a 4 × 10 cm fabric loop fixed at the centre. The back neckline is finished with interfaced facings.
Front: Centre front cut in two halves with a centre front seam, and two side fronts.
Sleeves: Set-in, three-quarter length, one-piece with an underarm seam; 3 cm hem.
Back: Centre back pieces with shoulder darts, side backs joined by princess seams, and a centre back seam.
Closure: Concealed zip in the centre back seam, from the neckline down to the notch.
Skirt: Vent at the lower end of the centre back seam, interfaced, with the left side folded over the right.
Finishing: Princess seams pressed towards the centre; hems of dress and sleeves blind-stitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A keyhole slit finished by hand, a neckline gathered through a loop, a concealed zip finished with facings and a lapped back vent.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Concealed zip
- Fusible interfacing (back neck facings, front neckline allowance, back vent)
- Fusible web (optional, for the slit allowance)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Neckline loop strip 8 × 10 cm – 1 piece (cut by measurement)
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Strips for the front neckline allowance and the back vent
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the shoulder darts on the Center Back pieces. Press darts towards the center of the piece.
- On the left Center Back, trim 5 cm off the vent extension along its vertical edge. Interface the vent on both Center Back pieces from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line; on the right piece, press only the vent allowance (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure them at the upper edge of the vent. Overlock the center back edge of each piece separately, overlocking the vent at the same time. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper notch to the top of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper from the upper edge to the notch.
- Stitch the Side Back to the Center Back and the Side Front to the Center Front (princess seams), press the seam towards the center and overlock.
- Interface the allowance along the neckline edge of the Center Front. Clip the allowance at the slit marks, overlock and press under the neckline edge and the slit area. Hem the allowance along the slit with blind stitches or secure it with fusible web. Stitch the center front seam. Press and overlock the seam.
- Interface the Back Facing pieces. Overlock the outer edge of the facings. Place the facings with the back neckline right sides together. Stopping 5 mm short of the zipper edges, fold back the facing and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the seam allowances along the zipper and pin them to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam at the curves, turn the pieces right side out and press. Fold the allowances along the zipper to the wrong side and attach to the zipper tape.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the Back Facing. Overlock the seam, turn right side out and press towards the back.
- Cut the neckline loop strip 8 × 10 cm. Fold it in half lengthwise to make a 4 × 10 cm strip. Stitch along the long side. Turn the piece right side out and press, centering the seam. Stitch the strip into a ring, overlock the seam and topstitch.
- Thread the upper (neckline) edge of the front through the loop. Slide the loop aside and stitch the upper edge. Overlock and press the seam. Position the loop at the center of the upper edge and secure it.
- Stitch the side seams. Press seams towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press and overlock the seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Press and overlock the seam.
- Press the hem of the dress and sleeve hem to the wrong side, overlock and hem with blind stitches.
