Contoured Yoke Pencil Skirt
A women's lined pencil skirt with a curved front yoke, a straight back yoke and wedge-shaped side inserts at the hips, front and back. Centre back seam with an invisible zipper and a lined vent.
When To Wear
- With a blouse or fitted jacket for the office.
- In tweed with a knit sweater and boots in autumn and winter.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Pencil shape, close-fitting through the hips and narrowing slightly to the hem.
Length: Around the knee.
Front: One front panel with a curved yoke across the top and an angled insert on each side; yoke seam pressed up and topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam.
Back: Two back panels with a straight yoke and an angled insert on each side; yoke seam topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam.
Closure: Invisible zipper in the centre back seam; waistband closed with one button.
Waist: Straight interfaced waistband folded in half.
Finishing: Centre back vent with a 6 cm interfaced allowance, the left side folded under the right; 3 cm hem sewn with a blind stitch.
Lining: Front and two back panels with darts laid as soft pleats; joined to the zipper tape and the top edge, cut out and hand-sewn around the vent, with a hem turned twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A curved yoke seam, a lined back vent, an invisible zipper and a lining finished around the vent by hand.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight wool fabrics of natural or blended fibres, such as tweed; a contrast fabric for the inserts.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (waistband, vent)
- 1 invisible zipper
- 1 button for the waistband
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back skirt half – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 2 pieces
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 1 piece
- Front skirt half – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From lining:
- Front skirt half – 1 piece
- Back skirt half – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband, vent.
Sewing Instructions
- Attach the back insert to the back skirt half. Press the seam allowances towards the center seam and serge. Attach the back yoke to the back skirt half. Press the seam allowances upwards, serge, and topstitch at 0.1 cm.
- On the left side of the back skirt half, cut 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both back skirt half pieces, reinforce the vent with fusible interfacing on the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the vent fold line). Press the left side along the vent fold line; on the right side, press only the seam allowances of the right vent side (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the vent seam allowances. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper notch to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowances on the right side. Press the center seam seam allowances open, press the vent seam allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper from the upper edge to the notch.
- Attach the front insert to the front skirt half. Press the seam allowances towards the center front and serge. Attach the front yoke to the front skirt half. Press the seam allowances upwards, serge, and topstitch at 0.1 cm.
- Stitch the side edges. Press the seam allowances open and serge.
- Stitch, serge, and press the lining pieces. Fold the darts into soft pleats. Along the center edge of the lining, stitch only the short section between the notch and the vent. Attach the seam allowances for the closure to the zipper tape. Secure the lining to the garment at the upper edge.
- Reinforce the waistband with fusible interfacing. Press the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Attach the outer side of the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt, simultaneously finishing the waistband corners. Fold the inner edge of the waistband inwards and topstitch into the waistband attachment seam. Serge the buttonhole and sew on the button.
- Serge the lower edge of the main skirt. Fold, press, and topstitch to the skirt with a blind stitch. Fold the lining hem twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Turn the skirt inside out. Secure the main fabric and lining pieces along the center seam, shifting the lining fabric slightly upwards. On the left side of the lining, cut out a rectangle according to the markings and clip the corner. Fold the lining edges and sew them to the sides of the vent.
