Fitted Paneled Skirt With Back Tails
A below-the-knee women's skirt, fitted over the hips and flared at the hem, cut in many panels. At the back, diagonal seams cross in an X above two layered tails edged with bias binding; invisible zip at centre back and a buttoned waistband. Lined.
When To Wear
- At the office with a tucked-in blouse; the back detail shows when you walk away.
- For evening events and celebrations with heeled shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting through the waist and hips, flaring towards the hem.
Length: Below the knee.
Front: A centre front panel with upper and lower side panels; a slanted panel seam on each side joins the upper and lower parts.
Back: Darts on the upper back panels and a centre back seam. Below, slanted panel seams meet over a lower centre section, onto which a large and a small tail are layered. Their lower edges and the lower edge of the centre section are bound with bias binding folded in half.
Waist: Straight interfaced waistband fastened with one button at centre back.
Closure: Invisible zip in the centre back seam.
Lining: Front and back lining with darts, attached at the waist; hem turned and topstitched.
Finishing: 1.5 cm hem, overlocked and blind-stitched by hand.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Many angled panel seams that must meet precisely, bias-bound tails layered into the back, an invisible zip and a separate lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Soft fabrics that drape easily, in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (waistband)
- 1 invisible zip
- 1 button
- Bias binding (length marked on the front skirt pattern piece)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front skirt half - 1 piece
- Front side skirt half – 2 pieces
- Front upper side skirt half – 2 pieces
- Back upper skirt half – 2 pieces
- Back side skirt half – 2 pieces
- Back side2 skirt half – 2 pieces
- Lower central back – 1 piece
- Large tail – 1 piece
- Small tail – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Front lining – 1 piece
- Back lining – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the waistband with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise and press. Finish the lower edges of the tails and the lower central back with bias binding. Place the large tail onto the right side of the lower central, then the small tail, align the upper edges, and secure with a stitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Attach the side 2 skirt half to the lower central. Begin the stitch from the upper corner because the lower edges of the pieces do not match (the central has finished lower seam allowances, while the side does not). Overlock the seams and press them towards the side.
- Attach the side skirt half to the side 2 skirt half. Overlock the seams and press them towards the side 2. Stitch the back side and front side skirt halves together. Overlock the seam and press it towards the back.
- Stitch the darts on the back upper skirt half. Press the dart folds towards the center. Overlock the center edges of the back. Stitch the edge from the notches for the zipper to the lower edge. Press the seam allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch the back and front upper skirt halves together. Overlock the seam and press it towards the back. Stitch the slanted panel seam, connecting the upper and lower parts of the skirt. Overlock the seam and press it upwards. Attach the front central skirt half to the skirt. Overlock the seams and press them towards the center.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the lining of the front and back skirt halves. Press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the side edges. Press towards the back and overlock. Overlock the center edges of the back lining. Stitch the edges from the notches for the zipper to the lower edge. Overlock the lower lining allowance, fold it inwards, and topstitch.
- Place the skirt with the lining, align the upper edges, and secure them.
- Attach the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt. Finish the ends of the waistband, trim the seam allowances at the corners, and turn out. Fold the inner edge of the waistband and topstitch into the attachment seam. Press the waistband in its finished state.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press it to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.
- Mark and make the buttonhole. Sew on the button.
