Yoke Tunic with Pleated Front

Name: Yoke Tunic with Pleated Front
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5921
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5921

A women's straight tunic dress of above-knee length in low- to medium-stretch knit. A curved front yoke sits above two pleats facing the centre front; the short sleeves are gathered at the cap and into a cuff, and the rounded patch pockets have vertical welt openings. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with medium or low stretch, in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Yoke Tunic with Pleated Front

When To Wear

Everyday wear in spring and summer, on its own or with leggings.
For the office over slim trousers or tights, with a light cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight and loose from the yoke down, no waist shaping.

Length: Above the knee.

Neckline: Round, the edge overlocked, turned in and topstitched.

Front: One-piece front yoke with a curved lower edge running across the chest; the front below it is cut on the fold and carries pleats whose inner folds face the centre front, held only in the yoke seam. The yoke seam is pressed towards the yoke.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves gathered between the notches at the cap and gathered at the hem into a narrow folded cuff.

Pockets: Two large rounded patch pockets on the lower front, running into the side seams. Each has a vertical welt opening made in the pocket itself, with an interfaced welt and a lining pocket bag, before the pocket is topstitched to the front.

Back: Plain back cut on the fold.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch stitch or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker; hem turned up and topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Welt openings in the patch pockets, a curved yoke seam over pleats, and gathered sleeve caps eased into the armholes of a knit garment.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with medium or low stretch, in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric (pocket bags)
Fusible interfacing (welts and welt placement area)
Twin needle or coverstitch machine for the hems

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Front – 1 piece on fold
Back – 1 piece on fold
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Front Yoke – 1 piece
Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
Pocket – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Pocket Bag – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic stitch or directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Off-Set Welts.
Mark and form the pleats on the Front, with the inner folds of the pleats facing the center front. Secure the pleats along the upper edge.
Stitch the Front Yoke to the Front. Serge the seam and press it towards the yoke.
Fold the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Fuse interfacing to the welt placement area on the Pocket. Mark a line on the welt indicating its finished width. Place the welt right side down on the right side of the pocket, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the welt. Place the Pocket Bag on top of the welt. Stitch the welt and pocket bag (the pocket bag is stitched with two parallel rows of stitches). Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the corners of the pocket bag and pocket, inserting the welt between them. Baste the pocket bag and the pocket together along the outline. Fold the rounded edge of the pocket inwards and press. Place the pocket on the front and topstitch.
Stitch the shoulder seams. Serge the seams and press them towards the back. Serge the neckline allowance, fold it inwards, and topstitch.
Stitch the side seams. Serge the seams and press them towards the back.
Stitch and serge the sleeve seams. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, sew a row of long stitches with loose tension and gather. Fold each Cuff right sides together and stitch it into a ring. Turn the cuffs out, press, and fold in half lengthwise. Attach the cuff to the sleeve. Serge the seam and press.
Along the sleeve cap between the notches, sew a row of long stitches with loose tension and gather. Set in the sleeves, easing the cap. Serge the seam and press.
Serge the bottom of the garment, turn it to the wrong side, and topstitch.