Hooded Knit Jacket
A women's hip-length single-breasted jacket in low- to medium-stretch knit, shaped with princess seams at the front and back, with a two-piece drawstring hood, two-piece set-in sleeves, two patch pockets and a three-button front. Most seams are topstitched.
When To Wear
- As a light jacket in spring and autumn over T-shirts and fine knits.
- With jeans or casual trousers for weekends and travel.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted through curved princess seams running from the armholes at the front and back.
Length: Hip length, with rounded lower front corners.
Collar: Two-piece hood with a centre seam pressed to the left and topstitched; the front edge is turned and topstitched as a casing for a cord that exits through interfaced buttonholes. The hood is set into the neckline and crosses at the front to form a V.
Closure: Three buttons, buttonholes on the right front; interfaced front facings stitched along the front edge and the hem as far as the princess seam.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve), the elbow seam pressed towards the upper sleeve and topstitched.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the lower fronts, the top edge turned and topstitched.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams, all pressed towards the centre and topstitched.
Finishing: Princess, shoulder and back seams topstitched 0.5–0.7 cm from the seam; the hem and facings topstitched 3.5 cm from the edge in one continuous line. Sewn on a straight-stitch machine; hems topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams with topstitching in knit, a hood set into the neckline between the facings, two-piece sleeves and drawstring buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Knit fabric with medium or low stretch.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, buttonhole areas on the hood)
- 3 buttons
- Cord for the hood
- 2 cord ends
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Hood – 2 pieces
- 8. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 9. Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Attention: Pattern pieces made of knit fabrics in this model are stitched on a straight stitch machine. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the Center Front Facing to the Center Front along the front edge and the hem line, sewing from the top point of the front edge down to the princess seam. Turn the facing to the right side and press. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Front; the hem allowance of the Side Front is stitched to the facing. Press the seams towards the Center Front, overlock, and topstitch 0.5–0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seams on the back, joining the Center Back and Side Back. Press the seams towards the center back seam, overlock, and topstitch. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam to the left side, overlock, and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press the seams towards the back and overlock. Topstitch the shoulder seams 0.5-0.7 cm from the seam.
- On each Hood piece, mark and work the buttonholes for the cord, first reinforcing the buttonhole area with fusible interfacing. Stitch the Hood pieces together. Press the seam to the left side, overlock, and topstitch. Overlock the front edge of the hood, fold the hem allowance, and topstitch. Set the hood into the neckline. Clip the seam allowance at the shoulder seam. Overlock the seam along the back neckline and topstitch it onto the neckline. Overlock the shoulder edge of the Center Front Facing. Finish the front neckline with the facing.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam joining the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve. Overlock the seam, press it towards the Upper Sleeve, and topstitch. Stitch the front sleeve seam. Overlock the seam and press it towards the Upper Sleeve. Set in the sleeves. Press the seam towards the sleeve and overlock.
- Overlock the lower edge of the garment, overlocking the outer edge of the Center Front Facing at the same time. Tack the shoulder edge of the facing to the shoulder seam. Press the bottom hem to the wrong side. Topstitch the facing and the hem 3.5 cm from the edge, starting and ending the stitching at the shoulder seam.
- Overlock the top edge of the Pocket, fold, and topstitch. Press the side and lower edges of the Pocket to the wrong side. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch the Pocket in place.
- Work buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front. Thread a cord through the hood and insert cord ends.
