Sleeveless Gathered Empire Waist Dress
This elegant maxi dress pattern features a flattering crossover V-neck bodice, an empire waistband, and a gathered flowing skirt for a gracefully relaxed silhouette.
When To Wear
This dress is perfectly suited for warm-weather occasions, offering both comfort and style:
- Summer Outings & Vacations: Ideal for beach holidays, resort wear, or daytime sightseeing.
- Casual to Semi-Formal Events: a versatile choice for garden parties, brunches, or relaxed gatherings.
- Everyday Comfort: Perfect for a stylish and comfortable look during warmer months.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a flowing maxi dress, gracefully extending to an ankle-grazing length, with a defined empire waist.
Neckline: An elegant crossover V-neckline formed by the lined, gathered upper front pieces.
Sleeves: a sleeveless design with wide shoulder straps.
Waist: a narrow empire band (middle front and back) joins the gathered bodice to the full gathered skirt; the seams are shirred with elastic thread.
Back: a low, straight back edge between the straps, shirred with elastic thread, and a center back seam in the skirt; no zipper is needed.
Lining: The bodice and skirt are lined; the lining can be cut from the main fabric.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires attention to detail for delicate fabric handling, gathering and shirring techniques, and precise lining attachment.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose light fabrics with excellent drape, ideal for flowing silhouettes:
- Chiffon fabrics (natural or blended fibers)
Additional Supplies
Cutter's Must
Seam allowances: all edges 1 cm.
- From main fabric:
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 1 piece (on fold)
- Upper Back – 1 piece
- Middle Back – 1 piece
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper Front – 2 pieces (cut from the main fabric pattern)
- Upper Back – 1 piece (cut from the main fabric pattern)
- Lower Front Lining – 1 piece (on fold)
- Lower Back Lining – 2 pieces
The lining can be cut from the main fabric.
Sewing Instructions
- Fold each Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, smooth and press.
- Stitch the side seams of the Upper Back and Upper Front in both the main fabric and the lining. Press the seam allowances towards the back. Stitch the Straps to the main fabric pieces. Fold the Straps down, place the main fabric and lining upper pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge of the back, the armholes, the upper edge of the front and the wrap edge. Clip the seam allowances on the curves, turn right side out and press. Then baste the main fabric and lining together and treat them as one layer.
- On the Upper Front pieces, sew a line of long, loose stitches along the lower edge between the notches and gather.
- Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the upper edge of the Lower Front and gather. Stitch the Middle Front to the Lower Front. Overlock the seam and press towards the Middle Front.
- Stitch the center back seam of the Lower Back. Overlock the seam and press. Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the upper edge of the Lower Back and gather. Stitch the Middle Back to the Lower Back. Overlock the seam and press towards the Middle Back.
- Stitch the side seams. Overlock and press towards the back.
- Stitch the Lower Front Lining and Lower Back Lining together. Overlock the seams and press towards the back.
- Stitch the upper part of the dress to the middle band. Fold the upper part down onto the right side of the dress. Place the lining right sides together with the dress, matching the upper edge of the lining with the seam joining the upper and middle pieces. Stitch the lining to the dress along this seam. Overlock the seam and press towards the middle band. Turn right side out.
- Overlock the lower edge of the dress. Fold the allowance to the wrong side, press and topstitch.
- Stitch rows of elastic thread: in the seams joining the middle band to the Lower Front and Lower Back along their entire length, along the upper edge of the back between the straps, and in the seam joining the Upper Back and Middle Back between the straps.
