Sleeveless Gathered Empire Waist Dress

Name: Sleeveless Gathered Empire Waist Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5886
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5886

A long women's sleeveless dress with a lined crossover V-neck bodice on wide straps, a band under the bust and a full gathered skirt. There is no zip: elastic thread stitched into the band seams and across the back gives the stretch to pull it on. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: chiffon fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Sleeveless Gathered Empire Waist Dress

When To Wear

Summer holidays and hot evenings, with flat or heeled sandals.
Summer parties and dinners outdoors, with a light shawl or cropped cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Raised waistline under the bust, with the skirt gathered into the band and falling loose to the hem.

Length: Long, to the ankle.

Neckline: Crossover V-neck: two upper front pieces overlap, each lined to the edge and gathered along the lower edge between notches.

Sleeves: Sleeveless, on straps made as stitched and turned tubes; armholes finished by the bodice lining.

Front: Lined crossover bodice, middle front band, and lower front cut on the fold and gathered into the band.

Back: Lined upper back with a straight upper edge between the straps; middle back band; lower back in two pieces with a centre back seam, gathered into the band.

Waist: Band under the bust between the bodice and the skirt. Rows of elastic thread run along the band-to-skirt seam all the way round, along the upper back edge between the straps and in the seam between the upper back and the band.

Closure: None; the elastic thread lets the dress pull on.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Lining: Bodice lined to the edges; separate skirt lining (front cut on the fold, back in two pieces) attached at the seam between the bodice and the band. The lining can be cut from the main fabric.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A lined crossover bodice turned out at curved edges, gathering into bands, a skirt lining set into a seam and shirring with elastic thread on chiffon.

Fabric Recommendations

Chiffon fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric (or the main fabric)
Elastic thread

Cutter's Must

Seam allowances: all edges 1 cm.

From main fabric:

Upper Front – 2 pieces
Middle Front – 1 piece
Lower Front – 1 piece (on fold)
Upper Back – 1 piece
Middle Back – 1 piece
Lower Back – 2 pieces
Strap – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Upper Front – 2 pieces (cut from the main fabric pattern)
Upper Back – 1 piece (cut from the main fabric pattern)
Lower Front Lining – 1 piece (on fold)
Lower Back Lining – 2 pieces

The lining can be cut from the main fabric.

Sewing Instructions

Fold each Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, smooth and press.
Stitch the side seams of the Upper Back and Upper Front in both the main fabric and the lining. Press the seam allowances towards the back. Stitch the Straps to the main fabric pieces. Fold the Straps down, place the main fabric and lining upper pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge of the back, the armholes, the upper edge of the front and the wrap edge. Clip the seam allowances on the curves, turn right side out and press. Then baste the main fabric and lining together and treat them as one layer.
On the Upper Front pieces, sew a line of long, loose stitches along the lower edge between the notches and gather.
Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the upper edge of the Lower Front and gather. Stitch the Middle Front to the Lower Front. Overlock the seam and press towards the Middle Front.
Stitch the center back seam of the Lower Back. Overlock the seam and press. Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the upper edge of the Lower Back and gather. Stitch the Middle Back to the Lower Back. Overlock the seam and press towards the Middle Back.
Stitch the side seams. Overlock and press towards the back.
Stitch the Lower Front Lining and Lower Back Lining together. Overlock the seams and press towards the back.
Stitch the upper part of the dress to the middle band. Fold the upper part down onto the right side of the dress. Place the lining right sides together with the dress, matching the upper edge of the lining with the seam joining the upper and middle pieces. Stitch the lining to the dress along this seam. Overlock the seam and press towards the middle band. Turn right side out.
Overlock the lower edge of the dress. Fold the allowance to the wrong side, press and topstitch.
Stitch rows of elastic thread: in the seams joining the middle band to the Lower Front and Lower Back along their entire length, along the upper edge of the back between the straps, and in the seam joining the Upper Back and Middle Back between the straps.