Pleated Wrap Front Dress

Name: Pleated Wrap Front Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5847
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5847

A fitted, sleeveless women's dress ending above the knee, with a crossover upper front, diagonal pleats across the lower front and back, and wide pleated shoulder straps drawn through decorative fabric loops. Invisible zip at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Pleated Wrap Front Dress

When To Wear

Daytime and evening events in spring and summer.
Office wear under a fitted jacket or cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted dress with horizontal seams under the bust at the front and back.

Length: Above the knee; 3 cm hem allowance, turned under and topstitched.

Neckline: V-shaped crossover at the front formed by the two upper front pieces, their wrap edges turned under and topstitched; rounded back neckline with an interfaced facing.

Front: Two stitched-down pleated upper front pieces overlapping each other, joined to a one-piece lower front. The lower front has pleats folded along the side edges, running across the front.

Sleeves: Sleeveless. Wide straps extend over the shoulders, are pleated at the front end and pass through a fabric loop that covers the seam joining them to the front. Armholes are finished with a 4 cm bias strip folded in half and topstitched to the inside.

Back: Upper back with darts, joined to a lower back with pleats folded along the side and centre back edges; the back and front pleats are intentionally not aligned.

Closure: Invisible zip in the centre back seam, from the neckline down to a notch.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats folded to markings on several pieces, a crossover front, an invisible zip with a facing attached to the zip tape, bias-bound armholes and straps threaded through loops.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Invisible zip
Bias binding 4 cm wide (for the armholes)
Fusible interfacing (back neck facings)

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Upper Back – 2 pieces
Lower Back – 2 pieces
Upper Front – 2 pieces
Lower Front – 1 piece
Strap – 2 pieces
Back Facing – 2 pieces
Placket (decorative loop) – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the darts on the Upper Back. Press the darts towards the center of the piece.
On the Lower Back and Lower Front, fold the pleats along the side edges and the center back edge according to the markings, with the inner folds pointing upwards. Baste the pleats along the edges. Note: the back and front pleats do not match each other – this is intended by the design.
On the Upper Front pieces, fold and stitch the pleats along the marked lines. Serge the wrap edge, turn it under, topstitch and press.
Stitch the Upper Front pieces to the Lower Front. Press the seam downwards and serge.
Stitch the Upper Back and Lower Back together, press the seam allowances downwards and serge.
Serge the center back edges. Insert the invisible zipper from the upper edge to the notch. Fold the lower end of the zipper aside and stitch the center back seam from the notch downwards. Press the seam allowances open.
Fuse fusible interfacing to the Back Facings. Serge the outer edge of the facings. Stitch the facings to the back neckline. Clip the seam on the curves, turn the facing to the inside and press. Stitch the center edge of the facing to the zipper tape.
Serge the neckline edge of the Strap, press it under and topstitch. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and the straps, catching the Back Facing at the same time. Serge the seam, turn and press towards the back.
Stitch the side seams. Press the seams towards the back and serge.
Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length. Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Place the binding along the armhole edge on the right side and stitch, then turn the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the dress. Press the seam.
Fold the pleats on the strap, with the pleat folds directed away from the center of the strap. Baste the pleats near the edge.
Fold the Placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the piece into a ring. Serge and press the seam. Thread the strap through the decorative loop. Stitch the straps to the front. Press the seam downwards and serge. Position the loop so that it covers the strap seam and secure it from the wrong side.
Press the hem allowance of the dress to the wrong side, fold under another 1 cm, and topstitch.