CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 1 QTY
- 2. Back Center – 1 QTY
- 3. Back Insert – 1 QTY
- 4. Back SKIRT HALF – 1 QTY
- 5. Front Yoke - 2 QTY
- 6. Front Center - 2 QTY
- 7. Front Insert – 1 QTY
- 8. Front SKIRT HALF – 1 QTY
- 9. SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 10. Placket – 4 QTY
- 11. Collar Stand – 2 QTY
- 12. Neckline FLOUNCE_1 – 1 QTY
- 13. Neckline FLOUNCE_2 – 1 QTY
- 14. Front FLOUNCE_1 – 2 QTY
- 15. Front FLOUNCE_2 – 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 1 QTY
- 2. Back Center – 1 QTY
- 3. Back SKIRT HALF – 1 QTY
- 4. Front Yoke - 2 QTY
- 5. Front Center - 2 QTY
- 6. Front SKIRT HALF – 1 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: collar stand, placket.
Sewing Instructions
- 1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the collar stand and placket pieces.
- 2. Along the upper edge of the back center piece, between the NOTCHES, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the edge to the length of the lower edge of the back yoke. Attach the back yoke to the back center piece, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke, and serge.
- 3. Similarly, process the LINING pieces. Place the LINING with the main fabric, secure along the edges, and then treat as one piece.
- 4. Along the upper edge of the front center piece, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the edge to the length of the lower edge of the front yoke. Attach the front yoke to the front center piece, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke, and serge.
- 5. Similarly, process the LINING pieces. Place the LINING with the main fabric, secure along the edges, and then treat as one piece.
- 6. Serge one long side of front FLOUNCE_1 and _2 with a thin, dense rolled hem. Place front FLOUNCE_2 on front FLOUNCE_1 and then treat as one piece. Stitch along the long raw edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather the FLOUNCE edge to the length of the front center edge and front neckline. Place the FLOUNCE on the FRONT PANEL and secure along the edge.
- 7. Fold the placket pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the placket right side out, and press.
- 8. Attach the outer placket to the FRONT PANEL, fold under the raw long edge of the inner placket, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- 9. Serge buttonholes on the right placket, sew buttons on the left placket. Overlap the FRONT PANELS, secure along the lower edge, and then treat as one piece.
- 10. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the collar stand right side out, and press.
- 11. Stitch shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and serge.
- 12. Serge one long side of neckline FLOUNCE_2 with a thin, dense rolled hem. Stitch along the long raw edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather the FLOUNCE edge to the length of the front and back neckline. Place the FLOUNCE on the neckline, secure along the edge.
- 13. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw long edge of the inner collar stand, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- 14. Serge the edges of neckline FLOUNCE_1 with a thin, dense rolled hem. Stitch along the middle of the piece with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the length of the upper edge of the collar stand. Place the FLOUNCE on the collar stand 0.5 cm from the upper edge and topstitch into the gathering stitch.
- 15. Topstitch the back and front inserts in the cut with parallel stitches using elastic thread, with a 0.5 cm gap.
- 16. Attach the back insert to the lower edge of the back center piece, stretching the insert to the length of the edge, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
- 17. Place the back SKIRT HALF with the LINING, stitch along the upper edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather the edge to the desired length (indicated on the pattern). Attach the skirt to the insert, stretching the insert to the length of the upper edge of the skirt, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
- 18. Attach the front insert to the lower edge of the front center piece, stretching the insert to the length of the edge, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
- 19. Place the front SKIRT HALF with the LINING, stitch along the upper edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather the edge to the desired length (indicated on the pattern). Attach the skirt to the insert, stretching the insert to the length of the upper edge of the skirt, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
- 20. Stitch side seams. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
- 21. Serge the hem of the garment and LINING with a thin, dense rolled hem.
- 22. Stitch along the SLEEVE cap with loosely tensioned stitches. Topstitch two parallel stitches according to the markings, using elastic thread. Serge the SLEEVE hem with a thin, dense rolled hem.
- 23. Stitch and serge the SLEEVE edge.
- 24. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, gathering the cap and shaping it around the shoulder seam. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
