Skirt with Soft Pleats
A women's lined skirt above the knee, with two soft unpressed pleats at the front, two darts at the back, a faced hip band at the top and a double hem band. Concealed zip in the left side seam.
When To Wear
- For the office and everyday wear with blouses, fitted knit tops and short jackets.
- In autumn and winter with tights and ankle boots; in summer with sandals.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Rounded through the hips, drawn in slightly towards the hem band.
Length: Above the knee.
Waist: Sits below the natural waist. The top edge is finished with a shaped band of outer and interfaced inner facings in place of a waistband; the joining seam is topstitched onto the inner facing 0.2 cm from the edge.
Front: One piece with two pleats laid and secured at the upper edge, releasing into soft folds.
Back: One piece with two darts, pressed towards the centre.
Closure: Concealed zip in the left side seam.
Skirt: The hem band is joined into a ring, folded in half and sewn to the lower edge; the inner layer is turned under and stitched in the seam.
Lining: Full lining sewn to the inner facings; the front lining is cut without the pleats. The lining is hemmed separately and secured to the zip tape.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pleats and darts, a concealed zip in a side seam, a double hem band, and a lining joined to the faced upper edge.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics with good drape, from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (inner facings)
- Concealed zip
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back skirt half - 1 piece
- Front skirt half - 1 piece
- Back facing - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back placket - 1 piece
- Front placket - 1 piece
- From lining:
- Back skirt half - 1 piece
- Front skirt half (without pleats) - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing - 1 piece
- Front facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the inner facings of the skirt.
- Stitch darts on the back skirt half, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Form and secure pleats on the front skirt half.
- Attach the corresponding facings to the back and front skirt halves, press seam allowances upwards.
- Overlock the seam allowances of the left side seam. Insert the zipper. Fold back the lower of the zipper and stitch the left side seam. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the right side seam of the skirt. Press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the placket pieces into a ring, press seam allowances open. Press the placket in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach the outer placket to the bottom edge of the skirt, press seam allowances towards the placket. Turn under the raw edge of the inner placket and topstitch into the placket attachment seam.
- Attach the lining to the facings, press seam allowances upwards and overlock. Stitch the right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back, overlock. Stitch the left side seam, leaving an opening for the zipper unstitched, press seam allowances open and overlock. Overlock the bottom edge of the lining, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Place the skirt and lining right sides together and stitch along the upper edge of the facings. Topstitch the stitching seam onto the inner facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn out the pieces and press. Topstitch the inner facings into the attachment seam of the outer facings and press. Secure the lining to the zipper tape.
