Plus Size Knit Dress with Open Keyhole
Introducing a comfortable women's plus size sewing pattern for a knit dress featuring a distinctive open keyhole neckline, decorative bands applied above the dress and sleeve hems, a raised waist seam with a slim belt, and a versatile A-line silhouette.
When To Wear
This knit dress is a versatile choice for a range of occasions, offering both style and comfort:
- Professional & Business Casual: Ideal for office environments, meetings, and smart-casual work settings.
- Everyday Elegance: Perfect for comfortable yet chic daily wear, from running errands to casual social gatherings.
- Transitional Styling: a versatile piece that can be easily styled for different seasons with appropriate accessories.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with bust darts, joined at a raised (empire) waist seam to a gently flaring A-line skirt for a flattering and comfortable fit.
Neckline: a round neckline with an open keyhole at the center front, bound with bias binding; the neckline facing is turned to the right side and topstitched as a decorative band.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length set-in sleeves, finished with a decorative band applied just above the hem.
Waist: Defined by a horizontal seam under the bust and a 2 cm wide leather belt held by belt loops.
Back: Features a center back seam in the upper back and a horizontal seam at the raised waistline, mirroring the front construction.
Hem: a clean topstitched hem at knee length, with a decorative band applied just above it.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires experience with knit fabrics, including sewing darts, attaching facings and bias binding, and applying decorative bands.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose knit fabrics with medium to low stretch to achieve the intended drape and structure:
- Knit fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible knit interfacing
- Knit tape or bias binding (4 cm width) for neckline finishing
- Leather belt, 2 cm wide
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Upper Front – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 1 piece
- Front Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Belt Loop – 1 piece
- Hem bands – 3 strips 4 cm wide, cut by measurement (1 for the dress hem, 2 for the sleeves)
- From fusible knit interfacing: Front Neckline Facing, Back Neckline Facing.
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also sew pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Back Neckline Facing and Front Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the bust darts on the Upper Front. Trim the dart fold, serge, and press.
- Finishing the keyhole edge of the front: press the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out. Place the binding right sides together with the keyhole, matching the binding's seam allowances with the keyhole edge allowance, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold from the wrong side.
- Stitch the center back seam of the Upper Back. Serge the seam and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front. Serge the seams and press towards the back.
- Stitch the facing pieces together. Serge the seams and press. Press 1 cm to the wrong side first on the short edges, then on the outer edge of the facing. Place the right side of the facing on the wrong side of the back and front and stitch around the neckline. Turn the facing to the right side and topstitch.
- Attach the Lower Back to the Upper Back, press the seam allowances downwards and serge.
- Attach the Lower Front to the Upper Front. Press the seam allowances downwards and serge.
- Stitch the side seams of the back and front. Serge the seams and press towards the back.
- Stitch the sleeve seams. Serge the seams and press.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Serge the seams and press.
- Serge the bottom edges of the dress and sleeves. Turn to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
- Cut 3 strips 4 cm wide: one as long as the dress hemline +2 cm, and two as long as the sleeve hemline +2 cm. Stitch each strip into a ring. Press 1 cm to the wrong side along both long edges. Position the bands 1 cm above the hemline and topstitch them in place.
- Fold the Belt Loop strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, align the edges and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Turn right side out, roll the seam to the fold, and press. Cut the belt loops to size and topstitch them on according to the markings. Thread a 2 cm wide leather belt through the loops.
