Tie Belt Straight Leg Pants
Women's full-length straight-leg trousers without a waistband: the top edge is finished with a shaped facing, carries four belt loops and a separate tie belt. Slanted front pockets, a fly zip and a two-button closure on the facing.
When To Wear
- For the office with a blouse or a fitted knit top, belt tied at the front.
- In spring and summer in lightweight suiting, with flat shoes or heels.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight legs from hip to hem, with pressed creases on front and back.
Length: Full length; hem allowance 2.5 cm, held with fusible web.
Waist: Faced waistline (front and back facings, interfaced and understitched) with four double-layer belt loops and a self-fabric tie belt, topstitched 0.1 and 0.7 cm around.
Closure: Front fly zip with a fly shield and topstitched fly; two buttons with buttonholes on the right facing.
Pockets: Slanted front pockets with interfacing tape on the opening, topstitched 0.1 and 0.7 cm; pocket bags in lining fabric.
Back: Back darts and a centre back seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Fly zip with a cut-on facing and fly shield, slanted pockets with a side piece, a faced waistline with belt loops caught into the seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, fly shield)
- Fusible interfacing tape 1 cm wide (pocket openings)
- Fusible web (hem)
- 1 zip
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Front Half – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Right Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Left Facing – 2 pieces
- Button Catch (fly shield) – 1 piece
- Side Part – 2 pieces
- Belt-Loop – 8 pieces
- Waistband (tie belt) – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front Left Facing, Front Right Facing, Back Facing, Button Catch.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the back facings, the front right and front left facings and the button catch. Fuse 1 cm wide interfacing tape along the pocket openings.
- Stitch the side seams of the front and back facings. Press the seams open.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the back halves. Press the darts towards the center. Overlock the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam and press it open.
- Place the pocket bag on the front half, right sides together, and stitch along the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. Topstitch along the pocket opening 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the edge and press. Place the front half on the side part, matching the pocket opening marks. Stitch and overlock the pocket bag. Baste the side part to the front half along the upper and side edges, 1 cm from the edge.
- Cut the cut-on fly facing off the left front half, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance at the center front. Overlock the center front edges and the fly edge.
- Stitch the center front seam of the front halves, starting at the end of the cut-on fly facing. Press the cut-on fly facing to the wrong side. Place the zip against the center edge of the left front half and stitch it. Stitch the free zip tape to the cut-on fly facing of the right front half. Topstitch the fly on the right front half along the marked line, 0.1 and 0.7 cm from it. Fold the button catch in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch the long edge and the short lower edge. Overlock the open edges of the button catch. Stitch the button catch to the zip seam on the left front half. Make a bar tack at the end of the fly on the right side of the trousers. On the wrong side, join the lower ends of the cut-on fly facing and the button catch.
- Stitch, overlock and press the side seams. Stitch, overlock and press the inseams.
- Place 2 belt-loop pieces right sides together and stitch around the edge, leaving the upper edge open. Turn the belt loop right side out, press and topstitch around the edge. Make the remaining belt loops in the same way. Stitch the belt loops to the upper edge of the facings at the marks.
- Place the facing pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Turn the facings right side out and press. Understitch the seam allowances to the inner facing, 0.2 cm from the seam. Overlock the lower edge of the inner facings. Stitch the outer facings to the upper edge of the trousers, matching the side seams. Stitch across the corners of the facings. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out and press. Stitch the overlocked edge of the inner facings down along the attachment seam. Stitch the belt loops down to the lower edge of the facings.
- Overlock the hem allowance and press it to the wrong side. Fix the hem allowance to the trousers with fusible web. Work buttonholes on the right facing and sew the buttons on the left facing.
- Fold the waistband (tie belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long edge and one short end. Turn it right side out, turn in the seam allowances of the open section and topstitch all around the belt 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the edge.
