Asymmetrical Double Breasted Belted Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From faux leather:
1. BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
3. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
4. CUFF – 2 QTY
5. Belt - 1 QTY
6. Belt Loop – 1 QTY
7. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
8. Front FACING – 2 QTY
9. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
10. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
11. Pocket – 1 QTY
12. Flap – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
3. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
4. Pocket – 1 QTY
5. Flap – 1 QTY

ATTENTION: The FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL LINING pieces are cut without considering the width of the front FACINGS and the back neckline FACING, respectively. The SLEEVE LINING pieces are cut without considering the CUFF width. Before fusing the faux leather pieces, it is necessary to test on a scrap piece.

Sewing Instructions

1. Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along 3 sides. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the flap corners and turn out. Press the seams flat. Overcast the raw edge of the flap. Make a buttonhole according to the markings.
2. Stitch the pocket LINING to the integrated FACING of the pocket top, leaving a 5 cm opening in the middle of the seam for turning. Stitch the side and bottom edges of the pocket with the LINING. Turn the pocket out and press. Topstitch 3 cm from the top edge of the pocket, closing the opening. Mark the position of the chest pocket on the right FRONT PANEL. Topstitch the pocket onto the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the flap to the FRONT PANEL, turn it down, and topstitch.
3. Place the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch. Trim the seams at the corners, turn out, shape, and press the COLLAR.
4. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which indicates the end of the COLLAR insertion. Trim the seams of the upper front corners. Turn the front edges to the right side, and press the seams flat.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seams open.
6. Stitch the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and the front FACINGS. Press the seams open. Insert the COLLAR between the jacket and the front FACINGS. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and stitch the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and front FACINGS. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower COLLAR insertion. Turn the front FACINGS to the wrong side. Align the seams. From the upper COLLAR side, stitch exactly into the seam where the COLLAR is attached to the neckline.
7. Set the SLEEVE into the open armhole.
8. Stitch the SLEEVE edge and the side edge in one seam. Press the seams open.
9. Fold the belt loop into 3 layers and stitch. Cut the belt loop into 2 pieces. Sew the belt loops to the side seam along the marked line.
10. Stitch the CUFF into a ring. Press the seam open. Stitch the CUFF to the bottom of the SLEEVE. Turn the pieces out and press.
11. Stitch the LINING pieces, leaving an unstitched section in the left SLEEVE seam for subsequent turning. Place the LINING with the jacket right sides together and stitch to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and the back neckline FACING. Stitch the bottom corner of the front edge. Trim the seams of the bottom front corners. Stitch the SLEEVE LINING to the CUFF.
12. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket out through the opening in the SLEEVE, press the seams flat, and stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.
13. Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving a 7-10 cm opening in the middle of the long side of the belt. Turn the belt out and press. Topstitch along the contour at a distance of 0.5 cm, simultaneously closing the opening. Thread the buckle.
14. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons. Note: Buttonholes are made on the lapels of both FRONT PANELS.