Tailored Princess Seam Dress
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a tailored sleeveless dress, distinguished by its elegant princess seams, defined waist seam, and a sophisticated front kick pleat.
When To Wear
This tailored dress is a versatile piece, ideal for a range of occasions:
- Professional & Business Settings: Its refined silhouette and structured details make it perfect for office environments, meetings, and corporate events.
- Daytime Chic & Social Gatherings: Easily dressed up or down for luncheons, gallery visits, or stylish daytime outings.
- Evening & Special Occasions: Choose a luxurious fabric and pair with elegant accessories for a sophisticated evening look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a close-fitting, flattering silhouette that skims the body, featuring a defined horizontal waist seam.
Neckline: a classic, gently rounded jewel neckline, finished together with the armholes by an all-in-one facing.
Sleeves: The sophisticated sleeveless design makes it ideal for layering or warm weather wear.
Bodice: Sculpted with armhole princess seams on both the front and back and a center front seam for a contoured and flattering shape; the skirt is shaped with darts at the waist.
Closure: a center back zipper ensures ease of wear.
Hem: Finishes gracefully at the knee with an inverted kick pleat in the center front seam, providing both ease of movement and a touch of modern appeal.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Skills required include precise sewing of princess seams, constructing a neat kick pleat, accurate zipper insertion, and clean application of an all-in-one neckline and armhole facing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose woven fabrics with some body and structure for best results:
- Cotton fabrics (e.g., sateen, poplin, twill)
- Linen and linen blends
- Blended fabrics with artificial fibers (e.g., polyester blends, viscose blends, jacquard, brocade)
Additional Supplies
- Zipper
- Fusible interfacing
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Front Skirt – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 1 piece
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front Facing, Back Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing and back facing.
- Join the Side Front pieces to the Center Front pieces. Overlock the seam and press towards the center of the front. Stitch the center seam of the front. Overlock the seam and press to the left side.
- Join the Side Back pieces to the Center Back pieces. Overlock the seam and press towards the center of the back.
- Stitch the darts on the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces. Press the darts towards the center.
- Overlock the center front edges of the Front Skirt. Stitch the center seam down to the pleat. Stitch the vertical edge of the pleat. Press the pleat open evenly to both sides (inverted pleat). Secure the pleat at the top.
- Join the Front Skirt to the bodice front. Overlock the seam and press it towards the skirt.
- Join the Back Skirt to the bodice back. Overlock the seam and press it towards the skirt.
- Overlock the center seam of the back. Stitch the center back seam from the hem up to the zipper notch. Press the center seam of the back open, press the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the dress. Overlock the side and shoulder seams. Press the seams towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the Front Facing and Back Facing, press the seams open. Overlock the outer edge of the facing. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch around the front and back neckline. Stitch the armholes in two stages: first the upper part of the armhole, then the lower part. Understitch the seam allowances to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Stitch the center back edges of the facing to the zipper tape allowances.
- Press the hem allowance of the dress to the wrong side, turn under and topstitch.
