Princess Seam Cap Sleeve Pleated Dress
Introducing a charming drop-waist dress pattern defined by princess seams, short cap sleeves, a smooth hip yoke and a pleated skirt, creating a flattering and refined silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile dress is perfect for a range of occasions, offering comfort and style for:
- Daytime Events & Gatherings: Ideal for brunches, garden parties, or informal celebrations.
- Smart Casual Outings: a chic choice for gallery visits, shopping, or relaxed dinners.
- Office Chic: When sewn in a structured solid fabric, it can be a stylish addition to a professional wardrobe.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a drop-waist silhouette: a fitted princess-seamed bodice extends to the hips, followed by a hip yoke and a pleated skirt.
Neckline: a wide, gently curved boat neckline finished with facings.
Bodice: shaped with princess seams on both the front and back for a tailored, figure-flattering fit.
Sleeves: short cap sleeves set into the upper part of the armhole; the lower armhole is finished with bias binding.
Hip Yoke: a smooth band (front and back yokes) sits at the hip line between the bodice and the skirt.
Skirt: a pleated skirt with a center back seam, attached to the hip yoke.
Closure: an invisible zipper at the center back.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires familiarity with princess seam construction, setting in cap sleeves, inserting a zipper, binding an armhole, and folding pleats.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose firm fabrics that hold their shape and pleats well:
- Firm fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zipper
- Fusible interfacing
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Skirt – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces, Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the Back Neckline Facings and the Front Neckline Facing.
- Stitch and serge the princess seams of the front and back. Press the front princess seams towards the center front and the back princess seams towards the center back.
- Serge the center back edges and press them to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the seam allowances so that the teeth are not visible, and stitch in place.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the lower edge of the back bodice. Serge the seam allowance and press it towards the yoke. Stitch the Front Yoke to the lower edge of the front bodice. Serge the seam allowance and press it towards the yoke.
- Stitch and serge the side and shoulder seams of the dress. Press the shoulder and side seams towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings. Place the facing on the neckline right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam on the curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, and press.
- Clip the armhole at the notches. Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and equal in length to the lower part of the armhole. Press the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place the binding right sides together with the lower part of the armhole and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side. Topstitch the seam allowance to the binding 0.1 cm from the seam.
- Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side, turn under, and topstitch. Set the Sleeve into the upper part of the armhole. Serge the seam.
- Stitch the center back seam of the Skirt. Press the seam allowances open and serge.
- Press the skirt hem allowance to the wrong side, turn under, and topstitch.
- Fold and press the pleats on the skirt as indicated on the pattern.
- Stitch the skirt to the yokes. Serge the seam and press upwards.
