Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Tip: Main fabric can be used as lining.

Cutting Plan

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back piece – 1 piece
  • Lower back piece – 1 piece
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Back insert – 1 piece
  • Upper front piece – 2 pieces
  • Lower front piece – 1 piece
  • Front insert – 1 piece
  • Inner cup piece – 2 pieces
  • Outer cup piece – 2 pieces
  • Side piece – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Back insert – 1 piece
  • Front insert – 1 piece
  • Inner cup piece – 2 pieces
  • Outer cup piece – 2 pieces
  • Side piece – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Inner cup piece – 2 pieces
  • Outer cup piece – 2 pieces
  • Side piece – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the outer and inner cup pieces, as well as the side piece.
2. Stitch the outer and inner cup pieces of the main fabric. Serge the seam and press towards the center. Attach the side piece to the cups. Serge the seam and press towards the cups.
3. Lining: Stitch the cup pieces from the lining. Process these pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Attach the front insert to the cups. Serge the lower edge of the front insert separately.
4. Cut the strap. Fold the strap lengthwise right sides together and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold. Turn the strap right side out and press. Sew the strap to the cup.
5. Stitch the upper back and front pieces at the shoulder seam. Serge the seam and press towards the back.
6. Press the bias binding lengthwise in half and finish the neckline edges. Serge the armhole edge, fold under, and topstitch 0.8 cm.
7. Place the upper front piece onto the cup piece and secure with a stitch along the lower edge. Note: The armhole edge and neckline edge of the upper front piece do not reach the cup edges by 1 cm. Attach the front insert to the assembled front pieces.
8. Fold the upper front piece and strap to the right side of the front. Place the cup pieces right sides together with the lining and stitch along the upper edge. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
9. On the lower front piece, create a box pleat. Secure the ends of the pleat with a stitch 0.5 cm from the upper edge. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces of the main fabric. Serge the seams and press towards the upper part.
10. Back lining: Stitch the back yoke and back insert of the lining. Serge the seam and press.
11. Sew the end of the strap to the back, adjusting the length during fitting.
12. Place the upper back piece onto the yoke (main fabric pieces only) and secure with a stitch along the lower edge. Note: The armhole edge of the upper back piece does not reach the side edge of the yoke by 1 cm. Attach the back insert to the upper back piece. Serge the seam and press towards the insert.
13. Fold the upper back piece and strap to the right side and finish the back yoke with the lining along the upper edge. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
14. Stitch with loosely tensioned stitches 0.5 cm from the edge along the upper edge of the lower back piece. Create a small gather. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces of the main fabric. Serge the seams and press towards the insert.
15. Stitch the side seams, leaving an opening for the zipper in the left side seam. Stitch the right seam from the lining edge to the bottom. Serge the seams. Press the right seam towards the front, and press open the left seam, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the zipper. Attach the lining to the zipper tape.
16. Topstitch the lower edge of the lining into the seam joining the main fabric pieces.
17. Serge the lower edge of the top, fold under, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.